Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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My 31 motor and trans came with no pedals so I found a set on ebay. Does this look right? WHats with the slot in the bracket closest to trans. I assume it should have a return spring to keep it from riding throwout bearing,in the video looking inside bellhousing I am pulling pedal back so bearing lifts off the assembly. . And also I am installing this drivetrain in a '25 chassis,is there any reason I should not cut the tip of the propeller shaft? I am so close to perfectly being where I need to be that I would only need to cut a half inch off or so. I already have about a half inch before the propeller shaft bottoms out in the trans.

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Last edited by slatebeltsalvage; 09/27/21 04:21 PM.
Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


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Shade Tree Mechanic
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The slot on your picture is the pedal stop, but it is in wrong position. It is bolted to the rod "B" to stop the centre cross shaft flexing under braking pressure. If it is set correctly, the throwout bearing does not lift off the assembly so much like on Your video.
I know nothing about to cut propellershaft.
Mihaly

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Last edited by TiredOil; 09/29/21 05:20 AM.
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Thanks Mihaly, That picture and info will help a lot. I am trying to help a young man with his 30 sedan. It should have that same type of brake actuation assembly. I was not sure of how that all goes together. Whoever put the car together cobbled up a 29 rear end into a 30 car. The brake rods are laid against one another and rather poorly welded together. The two cross bars activating the brakes are the 29 style pulling the front brake cables. The consensus is that it is best to get him a 30 rear end. I have located one up here in the Portland area and I will be taking it down to him in the Phoenix area in 2 weeks. I have the single cross shaft I saved out of a 30 coupe a body shop was hot rodding. That should get him close to operational.

I have '28, '29, and '36 cars, so I am learning something new.

Art

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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Here is a very good chart of the procedure of brake adjustment. The pictures scanned from the same page. The text of the General Inspection is complete on the second part only. The chart does not show the rod "B", although it is a very important part. It is because to adjust rod "B" is the first step of the clutch adjustment. It adjusts the cluch pedal stop and the brake pedal stop at the same time.
Mihaly
For better resolution:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UQeW6pGY0PToyQXtoscqGhRIWLFzOl6y/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v-Rw7X3OZBm17EbdGEbWOuMdZrIPfk6d/view?usp=sharing

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Adjusting Huck Mechanical brakes 1.jpeg Adjusting Huck Mechanical brakes 2.jpeg
Last edited by TiredOil; 10/01/21 02:50 AM.
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Thank you Mihaly!! The diagrams are greatly appreciated as I need to add front braking system to my car.

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1925 did not have front braking, first year was 1928/29


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Yes but I have already installed the drivetrain from a 31 and I think the 31 front axle will bolt right in as the rear end did

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will require modification and adaptation. 1925 rear brakes only rods and linkages, 1931 four wheel brakes rods and cables.

so you are building a 1931 on a 1925 chassis

the 1925 frame (four cylinder) is shorter than the frames from 1929+ (six cylinder)
1925 wheelbase 103.00 [1925 Chevrolet]
1931 wheelbase 108.56 [1931 Chevrolet]

you can make anything work with time and effort, make sure you get that engine sitting level !!


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Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932
The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell

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