Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 23
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 23
I have put a new wiring harness in my 1946 Chevy truck (it has been converted to 12v, with 1959 235 engine) My truck was taken apart years ago and unfortunately I did not get pictures and labels on the old wiring harness. There is no starting pedal, it uses solenoid on starter. There is no polarity reversing switch, it must have been removed when changing to 12v system.
Now that I have the new harness in and wires are all connected according to manufacture instructions, I have a couple of terminals that do not have any wires to them.
1. The Bat connection on the 4 wire ignition lock has no wires going to it, Why not? Maybe have misunderstood the wiring instructions and have wires in the wrong place.
I have wiring from the S terminal on the starter to the ST terminal on the ignition lock.
I have three wires on the IGN terminal on the ignition lock, 1 to coil, 1 to ammeter and one to gas gauge.
I have on 2 wires on the ACC terminal on the ignition lock, 1 to the flasher for the turn signal addition and 1 to the heater switch.

2. I do not have any wiring to the R terminal on the starter, what wire goes here?
I have the large cable from the + Battery terminal to the starter solenoid.
I have another wire on that same terminal that goes to the ammeter.
The wire on the S terminal goes up to the ST terminal on the ignition lock.

3. One other question, Does the wire from the horn button go direct to the relay and that wire go to the horn (I only have one wire connection on horn)?

I appreciate any help you can give me on this, I am not sure what I am missing here.
thanks so much.


Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 418
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 418
Others will chime in here, I'm sure. I have never used an aftermarket wiring harness, so others may know more about some of this.

The missing wire on the R terminal of the solenoid: you should run a wire from that terminal up to the ceramic distributor resistor, and connect
it to the distributor side of the resistor, NOT the ign. side. Your points normally run on less than 12 volts and this feature allows for the full 12 volts to
bypass the resistor for starting purposes, giving it a stronger spark for starting.

Bobalouie

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 418
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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Posts: 418
Yes, the horn wire goes to the relay, and then the relay wire goes to the horn. Bobalouie


Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 23
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 23
thanks for the help, and information on the wiring!

What goes to the BAT terminal on the ignition lock? doesn't seem right to run directly from the battery + to this connection?

THANKS again!

Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 418
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 418
If you are using a generator, on the regulator you can run a wire from the "Bat" terminal to the ignition "Bat" terminal, (preferably 12ga., which would supply a hot source to anything you would want to be energized only when the switch is in the ON position. This would include the wire you would have running to the 12v side of the resistor (again, not the point side of it), as well as anything else you may be running such as aftermarket stereo, electric wipers, heater motor etc.

This also provides the 12v source for your start position on the ignition switch.

If you are using an alternator, you can run a 12ga. wire from the battery terminal on the starter, up to the "Bat" terminal on the ignition switch to
accomplish the same as above.

Bobalouie

Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 23
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Posts: 23
Thanks for the information.
I have it wired this way and will give it a try as soon as I get the exhaust put on it.

Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 23
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Posts: 23
Exhaust is now installed.

I was able to start it and ran for 3-4 minutes, was idling fast so I shut it off to check out, but will not fire since. It is like there is no spark, just cranks.

I am rechecking everything in ignition circuit, coil, points, plugs and wires, I have 12.5 volts to the resistor with key on. Also checking back through carb settings.

Close but not there yet.

Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 4
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Posts: 4
Did you get it solved?


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