Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#46137 05/01/02 10:02 AM
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blu Offline OP
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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I have just bought a 1950 chevy..no, not a mistake..LOL! I am just starting into the rebuild world so I have many questions. First- the car has a 1955 chevy 235 6 cyl with 12 volt starter, coil and generator (not running-no battery!). I have NO KNOWLEGE ON ELECTRICAL SYSTMES so now what? Do I convert to 12 volt? Where is info on that process? Do I buy one of those "Special 6-12 Batteries" I saw on Hemmings? I first thought staying 6 would be good, but I want "cranking power" and "seeing power" of 12 volts, I think...HELP!

#46138 05/01/02 12:05 PM
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Blu,
What do you have planned for the car? parades , shows, touring and cruises, or as a daily driver? Are you going to add accesories like a stereo, A/C, etc.? if you are going to enter it in VCCA shows and hope to advance in the VCCA classifications a six volt system is needed to keep from dropping too many points.
With the most expensive part of a 12 vdc system already installed it makes sense to me to go with 12 volts for daily driveing, tours and cruises from a practical standpoint, check for 12v bulbs, and you will need a good voltage dropping device for your fuel gage and other six volt items not being replaced.
12 volt starters, Generators, battery cables and regulators are usually less expensive to get replacements for unless you do the rebuilding your self.
There are articles on the internet about changeing to 12 volt systems, National Chevrolet Association in Minnasota catalog and you can order online at( www.nationalchevyassoc.com ) , Patricks'(also online) Chevys of the 40s (online) in Arizona and other vendors sell kits and will help with the conversion. also the Stovebolt site has articles and advise, I would advise you to join VCCA application at (www.vcca.org) and a local Region or club (Listed at vcca.org home page) link at the bottom of this page!

If you change back to six volts good heavy duty components and keeping the engine well tuned and a six volt system can serve you well.
I haven't seen any reason to change my '53 Belair over and I have bright lights and it starts well cold or hot.
I use a 12 volt booster battery set (compressor, trouble light, 2 12 volt outlets, a 300 watt 110 vac outlet, and 12 v battery booster) to run my CB and other 12 volt accesorys, it cost about $80 at Sams, and it is portable for airing up tires, blowing out gas lines, powering trailor wenches ,and trouble light etc., etc. and it can go from car to car. It works well for me! chevy chevy chevy chevy


Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!
#46139 05/03/02 09:57 PM
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Mom had a '53 Chevy. Electrical system worked ok many years, summer and winter. And 6 volt batteries are a lot better now than they were in 1953.


If you have old Chevrolets, other old Chevrolets will find out where you live.
#46140 05/05/02 03:35 AM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 72
I have a 6volt 'Optima' battery.
The way it cranks the starter motor, I've been asked a few times if I have a 12 Volt system.

Quiet a few of the 'old school 6 volt men', are surprized how strong it is when turning the starter over.

These are sought of egg shaped when viewing down from the top. If you after originalty then I was told if you get an old square battery, cut the top off and gut the inside, the Optima will fit inside the old battery.

Glue or silicone the top of the old battery back on. The old terminal holes you can locate the Optima Battery terminals.

I'm unsure of the USA postal classification, but mine I purchased interstate and had sent by normal post, as they are leak proof.

#46141 05/05/02 12:40 PM
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#46142 05/05/02 12:57 PM
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blu Offline OP
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Lil Johnny

I believe you got the right idea. I am not sure about the gas gage though. I think it is all in the sender but I'm not sure...JUST A BEGINNER! Blu Agrin

#46143 05/05/02 03:11 PM
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Blu, the gas gage is NOT all in the sender, the gage it self will burn up if 12vdc is applied to it for any length of time, the voltage dropping device needs to be in series between the ignition switch and the gage. Yours is probably already burned up.


Life's a long winding trail, love Jesus and ride a good horse!

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