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Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 1
Grease Monkey
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OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 1 |
I just purchased a 1937 Chevy business coupe. Owner died so can’t talk to him. Car was restored to original condition but lots of play in steering. When I hit a bump over 20 miles an hour the wheels just go crazy wobbling till you slow or stop. Would like to keep original but think I need steering gear box or someone that can rebuilt it. Any advice would be appreciated
Greg Levron
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Is it a Master or a Master Deluxe?
The Master has leaf front springs.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,774 Likes: 4
ChatMaster - 1,500
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ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,774 Likes: 4 |
Like Gene said there is a lot of difference between Master and Master Deluxe. With the "death wobble" make sure the king pins are tight, and there is no slop in the tie rod ends or the drag link. If MD make sure the knee action units are full of fluid, and if Master make sure the shocks are full of fluid. All of those things can contribute to the shimmy more than slack in the steering gear. JMHO
Ed
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024 Likes: 99
ChatMaster - 4,000
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ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024 Likes: 99 |
My ”˜37 Master Coupe (leaf springs & solid axle) still had the “Chevy Shimmy” even after new kingpins and a complete steering gear rebuild.
The source is rapid axle to frame oscillations due to lack of damping by the shocks. As the axle moves up the drag link steers the wheels to the right. As it moves down they are pulled to the left.
I converted to tubular shocks but they are not stiff enough to control the oscillations under all conditions. They greatly improved the situation. My lever arm shocks would only hold fluid for about 2 weeks. Then the shimmy would happen with only minimal bumps. The choice was to rebuild them at $200 each or convert to the tubular shocks for about $150.
Rusty
VCCA #44680
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