VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt no lights, horn, wipers

I'm continuing my efforts to bring my '38 out of a long slumber on a restricted budget. Today, I installed a new battery--finally tracking it down at a place that keeps 6 volts on hand for farmers. Good news, bad news. With the battery in, Ol' Rip turns over. However, no sign of life from the headlights, dashboard gauges, lights, wiper. I know the taillight won't work because it's disconnected and I found a wire that I suspect once led to the dome light. The horns aren't connected and I can't even see where they would connect. The headlights wiring looks awful rough. The obvious answer is that I probably need a new wiring harness. Is there an alternative. Are the headlights on a separate harness? Do I just track each wire and see where it ends up to find a problem? Help!
Thanks

I would suspect the the head light switch or the main wire leading to it.I believe there are terminal blocks on the inside of the gril shell on a '38 or in that area.The wiring from the terminals to the head lamps did not come with the harness.There is a wiring diagram in the shop manual.The chassis wiring harness covers every thing under the dash and forword.The "WiryJoe" brand frequently come up on Ebay.They were a good replacement and look like the original and are easy to install.The harness fits 1938 cars only.
You can get replacement harnesses with "every wire in the car" for about $300.00

My '39 had a big fuse on the back of the headlight switch. Maybe a 30amp. And your '38 might be the same. Check that fuse. When the wiring got bad and I installed sealed beams, it would occasionally blow. And if I felt it, it was way too hot. It was my daily driver so I installed a headlight double relay and that took care of the fuse problem. The relay was also fused. If your '38 has the two horns above the engine, the big wire from the horn relay goes to the starter and the wire that comes out of the lower steering column connects to the relay to activate it. . Wipers are powered by engine vacuum.

Good thought Joe....The fuse is on the back of the ammeter on a 1938.If the fuse is blown its probably due to the bad insulation on the wires.

OK. Found the fuse on the ammeter. It looks fine. There's also another on the voltage regulator, appears to be OK but is covered by paint mist. I may replace both anyway. I'm stupid, but that's why I'm here. What is a terminal block?
In the process of my continuing search, I found what appears to be the end of a wire that would have connected to the dome light; the disconnected cigarette lighter wire and two other wires sticking out of the firewall that I haven't found a place of origin for! I have three horns--town, country and city cousin? The horn is now a button on the steering column. I've also learned there is a left and right hood prop--they aren't twins and that the hood prop screws are impossible to find once you drop one! Thanks for all the advice. I know a rewiring is in the future, but now it's not in the budget. Still piddling. Thanks for the help, all.

There was no fuse on the original volt. reg.

A terminal block is a fiber bar located where the wirung harness wires end and connect to the leads coming from the head lights.The wires have terminals on the end and are connected by a screw (clamped to gether)(junction block)

In 1938 if the accessory dual horns were installed the wire from the little horn on the intake manifold was disconnected and the dual horns connected with that wire.The wire fed into a hole in the steering mast jacket and ran up inside the column.That wire was grounded by pressing the horn button.A wire from the main harness ran to the horn relay and supplied the power.The button clamped on the side was used because the wire in the mast jacket is rubbed thru causing the horn to blow by itself while driving.
Sounds as if your having fun

OK. I'll look again. Yes, I'd noticed that there was no fuse on the voltage regulator originally. Why might there be one now? I'll look at the headlights. There's a lot of wire, much of it bare, right after the wiring comes out of the bucket. Things are compounded by the fact that the car isn't running, so I can't pull it out of the garage where there's more light and access. It's too darn hot in the garage and hotter outside. But I'm pressing on. I'm figuring that if I can get it running, I can move it to a locale more favorable to addressing the lighting issues. Still didn't turn up that darn screw. I have the shop manual, are there other resources that might illustrate this better? Thanks.

You mentioned in your first posting that your wipers did not work. The original wipers were vacuum and unless someone has converted yours to use an electric wiper motor, they will not work without the car running. I sympathize with you on your electrical problems. The only electrical thing that works on my '38 is the ammeter. I have a complete new wiring harness that includes every wire throughout the car but just haven't had time to install it. Mine has all the original wiring and I felt it was just too unsafe (fires) to try and fix it up. My car does start O.K. It just doesn't have any accessories.

You know, I began to come to that conclusion about the wipers, but I was going to ask my dad to conceal my ignorance on that. But, alas, you found me out!
The new wiring appears to be looming on the horizon, mostly because, as you point out, safety could become an issue.
If I'm lucky, the car will run and I'll just putt around in daylight. Here in the Austin area, even that's a bit risky.
Now on e-bay is one of the aforementioned WiryJoe harness kits. (Item #160016485801). From what I've learned, everyone has had pretty good luck with these. Is that what y'all are hearing? Is this the entire wiring harness or the wiring harness sans headlights or something else? How do you tell? Is it comparable to the $300 harness from RIWiring, for instance? Sometimes, these e-bay items can cost as much used as new, so I'm a bit wary. I also have the wiring out of a '49 chevy. How similar is it to the 1938? Any idea? Thanks, guys, I'm learning a lot.

:) When I was looking for a harness for my '38, I heard about the Wiry Joe and was looking for one. However, I was told they were old harnesses but that people did like them and seemed to have good luck with them. Nevertheless, I still didn't want to put an old harness in my car so I kept watching. Someone finally put a complete harness on ebay and I was fortunate enough to get it for around $250.00. It was still in its original packaging and has every wire in the car except for parking light extensions. The guy selling it decided to make a hot rod out of his car and could no longer use it. The harness was made by Harnesses Unlimited in Wayne, PA. I am not sure if they are still in business, but it looks like a very nice harness. It was made using modern wires made to look original. They are properly color coded and wrapped. Now all I have to do is install it!!

Yes, I think I bid on that wiring harness. But I only went to about $100. The WiryJoe seller told me the box said primary and ignition, which still doesn't tell me if headlights are included. He said to look at the illustration, but even if I knew what I was looking for, I couldn't tell it in that jumble. THe thing about these auctionns is, why pay $295, when a new one with guarantee is about $310 or so. Plus, if the wiring that sat in a car for 60-plus years goes to pot, it's fair to assume that wiring that sat in a box in a hot warehouse could have issues, too. I read somewhere, perhaps on the Internet, that installing a wiring harness isn't all that hard but that's usually the first clue to be wary. Also, the theory that you take the old one out and use it as a reference guide doesn't hold up when you see one like mine! Good luck with your harness. Let me know how it goes.

The WiryJoe harness covers the under dash and under hood area.Head light wires go to headlamps on pre-1936 and to the junction block NEAR the headlights on 1937 and up.I wouldn't buy a WiryJoe sight unseen as the instulation has becaome very hard on some.I have also seen some with nice, soft pliable insulation.Have WJ harnesses in two of my car that I installed over 30 years ago and they still look great except are dirty in places.I have heard of a lot of people that had trouble with the new harnesses, wires missing,etc.Also their covering is of much brighter colors than the original.Guess its Six of one and half a dozen of the other.