Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Apr 2020
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JT1 Offline OP
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 4
Hi! New member here.

I have been working on an all original '37 Chevy pickup for 3 years. I did a body off frame resto, and took it down to the last nut and bolt. The truck is back together with the original 216 engine, 3 speed manual transmission and rear end. The engine starts at the first crank, and runs ok at top speed of 40 mph. However, when going through the gears at part load, the engine runs rough. The engine also wants to die when you come up to a full stop at a red light. But it will restart.The single barrel Carter W1 carburetor was restored by The Old Carb Doctor. When we started the engine, we tried to adjust the fuel/air mixture. Turning the fuel/air adjustment screw all the way in or out made no difference whatsoever in the engine speed or smoothness of running. I removed the carb and sent it back to The Old Carb Doctor a second time. He has disassembled it and cannot find anything wrong with it. After I removed this carburetor, I noticed the heat riser spring was broken and hanging by a thread. I bought a new spring and now the heat riser valve opens and closes as it should.

We checked for vacuum leaks by spraying brake fluid on the carb gaskets, hoses to the carb, etc., and found none.

I wanted to ask the forum if the heat riser being closed constantly and the intake manifold heated constantly could cause the rough running at part load. Or, is there something else the Carb Doctor should check? We replaced the fuel pump with a new one during the resto.

The truck was saturating the spark plugs with fuel, and the plugs were replaced. But doesn't that mean something is out of whack with the carb?

Any ideas? This is the last part of the project before it is finished. I sure appreciate any guidance the forum members might be able to give. The truck has been driven maybe 25 miles since the start-up of the rebuilt engine, around the block once and to/from the repair shop twice.

Thanks in advance!

Jack

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Joined: Feb 2002
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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Stuck float?
WL


Wilson
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
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Your issue with the fuel mixture screw certainly points to the carb being the problem. Do you know someone with a good running W-1 you could borrow for a quick swap and road test? I wish you were closer, I would hook you up.

Mike


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

Many miles of happy motoring
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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I have received several carburetors that were reported by owners to have been rebuilt by a "Carb Doctor". They required part replacement and had other issues. I don't know if the one you sent yours to was the same but my advise is to send it to someone that specializes on W-1s. Dean Echols in Chino Valley, AZ is one.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
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I gave up on my Carter W1 on my 38. I recently installed a brand new Daytona UN2, which is actually a Zenith 28. I am very pleased with result.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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Glad you are pleased with the replacement. I wish you had sent the W-1 to a person that really understands those carburetors. Keep it in mind when your replacement has problems. Don't know anyone that has experience with the replacements. With modern gas and the intermittent running of our collector cars there will be issues with polymerized gasoline in the future.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
Joined: Sep 2002
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ChatMaster - 2,000
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ChatMaster - 2,000
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I will just make the point that not everything new is bad. This carburetor type was factory equipment on GMCs in the early fifties. In addition certain materials have been updated to be damage resistant when used with modern fuels:


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .

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