Hello, first i have a 35 chevy master and I got a rear end drive train from a 1936 to convert to hydraulic brakes. I'm not sure what the drive train came out of? standard or master, The numbers on it 377707 could someone help ?
Someone maybe able to tell you more with your number, but easy way if they axles are still in it, is 5 bolt Lug pattern on axle is a standard, 6 bolt lug pattern is master.
Thank you for replying, The axles are 6 bolt pattern. I have tried goggling 377707 and nothing. I just want to make sure it's from a car and not a truck. Or did they interchange and work on both car and truck? I have numbers off the pinion if that can help 377715
It's not as easy as identifying 377307. I'm surprised you don't have an answer by now, but if that is the casting number, and I think it is, it is not going to tell you if it is from a truck or a car. If that is the number I think I recognize, it was used on several different rear axle assemblies.
Part number 377307 is the 9 leaf front spring assembly for 1934-1936 P, Q, R trucks. If the number you are looking at is stamped on a machined pad it will be a serial number. Casting numbers are raised numbers not stamped.
If some parts books contain descriptions with precise dimensions to help identify a particular rear axle application.
Thank you both for replying where would I find the numbers on the rear end to identify it? I had found this number on the differential case. it was up side down. and Thank you for your time
Chipper: I made a typo 377307. Sorry about that. Nazario had 377707.
Maybe you can identify it from numbers but I doubt it (?). That particular number doesn't tell you much. Torque tube length would be significant. So would the track width, as well as the diameter of the very front of the torque tube. I think (but am not positive) that the diameter at the front of the torque tube, where the knurled nut would live if the torque ball was still attached, is larger on 37-39 1/2 ton trucks. It would be the same size as 35-36 Chevrolet Master (smaller) on a 1935-1936 Pontiac.
1935-1936 Pontiac uses the 377707 carrier casting, and I believe 1937-1939 Chevrolet 1/2 tons do as well, but the whole part is not interchangeable over all those applications due to differences in the non-removable torque tube. 1935 and or 1936 Chevrolet Master might use the 377707 casting too, but I am not sure.
Even if you posted the details I mentioned above, I probably could not identify it, but I might be able to tell you some things it isn't.
If it is a 1935 or 1936 Pontiac axle, it will have Bendix hydraulic brakes instead of the Chevrolet Huck brakes. 1935 will have sheet metal drums on those Bendix brakes and 1936 will have cast iron. The Bendix brakes do not have a fixed anchor at the bottom like the Chevrolet Huck brakes. Also the Pontiac gears will most likely not be 4.11 like a Chevrolet, but 4.11 was optional.
I believe (but am not certain) the 1939 1/2 ton Chevrolet axle has a wider track width than the others. I believe any of the 1937-39 1/2 ton Chevrolet axles will have a torque tube too long for the 35 Chevrolet Master, and that the length could vary by year.
Nazario, If I read my catalog right, all '35 and '36 Master Passenger and 1/2 ton trucks used the same complete torque tube assembly. Since you are making a change to get hydraulic brakes, The only part of your new unit that should concern you, is the axle housing. (wheel to wheel) Compare the length and mounting pad locations and do what you have to do to make it work. I just renewed the mechanical brakes on my '35 Standard using original type woven linings. I adjusted everything, step by step, according to the shop manual. I slide the tires if I hit the brake pedal suddenly and too hard. Maybe a thorough tune-up of your original brakes would produce satisfactory results.
Thank you Bloo and Mike for your input. The Axle housing (wheel to Wheel) length is the same as the 35. Just want tp make sure it was from a 36, cause I'm taking the word from the person I got is from. One question, is the rear end on the 36 noisy? Sounds like a truck . I had to replace the pinion front and rear bearings with the pinion.
Thank you Bloo and Mike for your input. The Axle housing (wheel to Wheel) length is the same as the 35. Just want tp make sure it was from a 36, cause I'm taking the word from the person I got is from. One question, is the rear end on the 36 noisy? Sounds like a truck . I had to replace the pinion front and rear bearings with the pinion.
Thanks again for your time
What do you mean by that? You replaced a pinion? Or just the bearings on it?
The ring and pinion are a matched set, most likely lapped to each other when made. If you replaced only one without the other, it's going to be real noisy if it even survives. Pinion depth (it is shimmed) and backlash are also critical. My 1936 Pontiac does axle not make any noise that you would notice above all the other noises an old car makes. It is exactly the same rear axle design, just has a different gear ratio.
Thanks mike, Bloo the pinion and bearings, front and rear blow out. The bearings fell apart and caused damage to the pinion. I found the the exact same pinion with the same numbers 377715.
If you did not put in the ring that was factory lapped with that pinion, I am not surprised you have a bunch of noise. You could try adjusting it, but I don't hold much hope.
On the extra rearend you have, if the torque tube length is the same at the 35, and if the nose of the torque tube is the same diameter, you should probably use it. It may need bearings too. Many do. I have torn down 3 of them so far and all were within a short distance of exploding due to bearing issues.
As 35Mike said, the 35 torque tube and differential carrier assembly will interchange with the 36 assembly, and either one could be used in the 36 axle housing, assuming the axle housing will bolt in the car.
If the new torque tube is the wrong length, or the nose is the wrong diameter (probably meaning it is a 37-39 truck), you can still most likely use the ring and pinion set, with only a couple of gotchas.
There is an internal difference between early and late 35. An early 35 pinion uses one different bearing. Did you have 2 ball bearings on the pinion (early 35) or one ball bearing and one roller bearing (late 35)?
If you had the roller bearing on your 35 pinion, the ring and pinion out of the 36 master (or 37-39 truck) will fit your 35 driveshaft and torque tube/carrier. Use the whole diff case (the rotating part) because the ring gear is riveted to it. Make sure the rivets are not loose.
If you had 2 ball bearings, I think the later pinion (and it's matching ring and riveted-on case) still fits the early 35 torque tube and carrier as long as you use the correct (roller) bearing for the later pinion, but I am unsure on this last point.
I strongly recommend documenting the backlash and the pinion depth before you take it apart. It takes a special tool for the pinion depth, You might have to pay someone to measure that. I don't have a lot of faith in the factory method of lining up the tips of the teeth. It isn't very exact. It did not work at all with my period aftermarket gears, as the pinion was slightly longer that Chevrolet's. 80+ years on you could easily run into a situation like that.
Thank you Bloo for all your information. I will need to open it open. I'm thinking of just taking it to a shop and have them inspect it. I already bought another NOS ring and pinion for a 36 master. Just in case.
What? Really? 9-40 works out to 4.44. Those must be six cylinder Pontiac gears. 9-37 would be the standard Chevrolet 4.11, and more desirable than 4.44 unless you want to pull stumps.
Divide the big number by the little one. The common Chevy 4:11 is the best gear for this axle that is not impossible to find. The only taller ones that exist are 3.82 Chevy 1/2t "fuel economy" gears (rare even in the 30s), and Larry Jackson's aftermarket 3.36 (out of production, expensive, only a handful of sets made). Why do I know all this? I have a Pontiac with 4.89 in it!
In my opinion, don't put 4.44 in there. Every Pontiac owner wants rid of those. Even 4.11 is really too slow for modern roads. The easiest route is to find some used Chevy 4.11 gears that already have the ring gear riveted to the case. Make sure the rivets aren't loose.
In another thread for a slightly older car, someone in the last few days had a ring gear riveted on and posted the name of the shop that did it. If you are working with a loose ring, you may find that very useful. I spent a year trying to find someone to rivet a ring gear on and failed. I wound up using aircraft shear bolts and a bunch of loctite. I don't have a ton of faith in it, as the design is intended for rivets and the holes may not be perfect enough to distribute the load evenly. I will have more to say after it has been on the road a while.
Yes, the 9/40 gear set gives more pull but less axle shaft speed. It is the ratio of the teeth that is important.
For example, the 1937 Master Deluxe had 9 teeth on the pinion and 38 on the ring gear (4.22 ratio). The Master had 11 teeth on the pinion and and 41 on the ring gear (a 3.73 ratio). The Master ihas lower engine speed for the same ground speed when compared to the Master Deluxe. The Master Deluxe will accelerate faster and pull hills in top gear that require you to downshift in the Master.
my 35 master coup has the 3.83 rear . it is perfect ratio the car has been in the mountains and flat land it runs 55- 60 easy . i have not seen this set of gears for sale resentlly look at the parts book and you will see two different rear ends for 35 hope this helps
I put in the drivers drive line with the pinion gears 4:11 in the 35. When I took out the other gears found out the rear pinion bearings were blow out again. Dumb question, but what Lubricates the pinion bearings?
