Welcome to the VCCA Chatter Forum. You have come to the right place for help with your '28 Chevy. There are several that frequent this site that have owned and driven similar cars for decades. Many of us routinely drive and tour with our 4 cylinder cars and trucks.
There are several manuals that are available in reprints. Owner's Manual, Repair Manual will be of most help in understanding how it works and common repairs. They are available from the Filling Station (
https://fillingstation.com) a Chevy parts seller in Lebanon Oregon. There are also other literature dealers that have them as well. The Filling Station also sells many replacement parts for your '28. A search for 1928 Chevy their online calendar will find a bunch.
First take 5 times the number of photos of every part, exterior, interior that you think might be helpful to document the condition, how to put it back together, which parts are needed, help others know what part you are asking about or just to put in an album for others to appreciate what you started with and where you are now.
Our general recommendation for reviving a long stored vehicle is to determine the general condition of wiring, drive train, exhaust, radiator. Are they safe, contain at least some of the required fluid? Does it look okay?
The engine is a vary important part of any vehicle. I suggest remove the engine oil pan, scrape out the sludge, clean the pan, inspect the parts including the oil pump screen and oil pan for rust and possible holes. Also check the water pump, generator, starter to be sure they rotate, clean and lubricate as necessary. Take off the distributor cap after documenting the condition and location of wires.
If it all looks clean then all you may need to do is clean the points with file, wife's emery board, fine grit sand paper. Take off the valve cover, lubricate the valves, rocker arms, shafts, push rods and sockets with motor oil. I use a brass drift (rod) and small hammer to check each valve to be sure they are not stuck. Put one end of the drift on the top of the valve or rocker just above the valve stem and tap to see if the valve moves down and immediately back up with only valve spring pressure. Replace gaskets with new ones. Wet the short pieces in the oil pan gasket set with water and wrap them around a beverage can. Hold them in place with tape, rubber band, plastic wrap overnight to dry with an arc. Once reassembled put in 4 quarts of 10W-30 or 5W-20 detergent motor oil. Seriously consider documenting the location of distributor rotor and removing the distributor so you can spin the oil pump to be sure the pump operates and there are no significant leaks. A drill with rod having an end matching the bottom of the distributor shaft works well. Once that is done then return the oil pump shaft to the same position as when the distributor was removed and reinstall the distributor with the rotor in the same exact position as when removed. [Caution: do not rotate the engine while the distributor has been removed unless it was at top center of the compression stroke for No. 1 cylinder and is restored to that exact position]. Inspect the carburetor and vacuum fuel pump. It may be best to use a small temporary gasoline tank if there is any doubt on condition of gas tank, lines, fuel pump.
Once the engine is prepped, make sure the battery posts, cable clamps and ends are clean, corrosion free and cables in good shape. Be sure the cables are large enough for 6 volt systems and battery fully charged. It is not necessary to fill the radiator with water if you only run the engine for less than a minute to get an idea of its condition. Once you determine the running condition of the engine then check the transmission, cooling system, etc. If the engine has problems then it may need to remove it which requires removal of hood, radiator, etc.
