VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 1937 MD steering box

Hello Everyone,

I am in the process of rebuilding the original steering box of my '37 Chevy MD., which I removed shortly after receiving the car. The steering gear was wiped out from being empty of any fluid. I installed the steering box from my "white car" as I as able to adjust some of the slop out of it, but it still has play.

I have pressed out the sector bushings and installed new ones along with a new modern seal.

The manual talks about a brass bushing between the sector gear and the adjustment screw. The end of the sector gear has what appears to be a location hole for locating a bushing. (when I took it apart there was no bushing) Does any one have any info for this bushing or possible have one ?? The kit I bought did not come with that bushing, it also did not come with a steel end plug, which I have to punch out in order to remove the bottom bearing race. It has rusty "low spots" .

I sent an email to Lares Corp., they rebuild steering systems of all types, but do not sell individual parts, nor do they give out information.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Dave,

I apologize for not responding sooner. I was hoping that a ”˜37 MD expert would offer some guidance.

Last year I rebuilt the steering box on my ”˜37 Master. Those are somewhat different designs so I am a little cautious to offer my ideas.

I agree that it is unfortunate that the ”˜37 shop manual does not have an exploded view of the MD gear like it does for the Master gear.

Does this diagram help? http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_41/41cp159.html

Hello Rusty,

Thank you for your response.

That was the first place I went to. I would think the 2 different models would be built along similiar lines, as the difference is the steering ratio. Here again my question is based on what I read in the manual.

I did discover, today, is that the adjusting screw is brass coated after I cleaned all the sludge off it, I checked it with a magnet and it is steel.

Hi Dave,

I would be cautious about assuming they are similar construction. The MD box has a much lower friction style sector that follows the worm. It does not transmit near the thrust load that the Master sector creates.

When I read the steering gear section of the ”˜37 manual today I did not see any reference to a thrust bearing in the section on the MD box. I did see that for the Master box. I did replace mine. It goes on the pitman shaft and fits between the sector gear and the housing where the pitman shaft extends out to the arm.

The Master steering gear is more like the truck gear shown on page 160 in the Master Parts List. The thrust bearing is item 6,854.

Hello Rusty,

I see where I made the mistake of thinking that they were the same. I was able to get a name of a tech guy at Lares Corp. who has been there since the beginning and I asked if he would look for any info on the rebuild process concerning thrust washers for my MD. Hopefully he will answer me this coming Monday.

Thank you for your insight of the Shop Manual.

Hi Dave,

Glad that you found an expert. Gets me off the hook!

Please let us know what you learn.

. First, I've attached an exploded view from the parts book. I've rebuild several of them myself from new and used parts depending on my financial situation at the time. I've had them "Professionally" rebuilt and then had to remove and dismantle to discover what the Pros left out. The 1937 Chevrolet Master Deluxe steering box is similar to the 1938 - 40 box. The sector (6.850) part #263586 fits all 37 - 40 except 37 standard and trucks including commercial. The worm shaft (6.524) Part #2638487 (40-5/16" long) is 37 Deluxe only. .
. . One aftermarket rebuild kit supplied one long bushing to replace 2 short ones on the sector. The "Pros" used one short bushing. Lots of slop and ruined the seal. . .
. A 38 or 39 "85" box will bolt in but 1937 and older Chevys used a taper key to hold the steering wheel to the shaft. 38 & newer used spline so you will have to use a 38 or newer wheel. Taper key is in attached picture. .
. Lou
.

Hello Lou,

Thank you for the info.

I ram rebuilding mine with a kit from CoF's, 2 bushings, 2 bearings, 2 races, a modern seal, no end "cap" was supplied so I had to reuse the original but made sure it "spread tightly against the housing. . I had bought a sector shaft kit and the worm gear/steering shaft from Bob Graves, a member of the NNER. I tried using the solid brass bushings from his kit but after pressing them in, the sector shaft would not fit and I don't have the reaming tool called out in the instruction. I pressed them out and used the CoF's kit and the sector shaft fit nicely.
I will finish assembly Monday.

Did you check the preload at the steering wheel before you reinstalled the steering into the car ??

Hello Lou,

I have the steering box assembled loose. How did you start the assembly of the steering box ?? (The one thing I have not checked, because the donor steering box is still in the car, is the location of the key in relation to the steering wheel.) The shop manual is assuming that the steering box is tight from the factory and a slight adjustment needs to be made.

I guess my question is, do I tighten all the bolts, then start the adjustment process ??

. Hi Dave, It was over 40 years ago that I rebuilt a 38 box to put into my 37 Sedan Delivery cuz I couldn't find a 37 standard box or parts. I had to purchase a reamer. My memory is a bit fuzzy as to exactly the order of assembly. . I believe I got the roller - sector #6.850, bushings and seal properly fit to housing # 6.785. Then I adjusted the worm shaft bearings with nut #6.532 as I would wheel bearings. "As tight as possible with out binding." The Kit I had, used a paper gasket between the two housings so I smeared it with Permatex. It is adjusted with an eccentric bolt. I loosely installed the 3 normal bolts and adjusted the eccentric to it's tightest setting. After tightening all 4 bolts, I set screw #6.822 so there was no end play. There was still slop which is why I quit driving it daily. . . . .
. . Having driven two new 1974 Pintos (AKA: mustang 2) I would not recommend using that rack and pinion suspension. .
. Lou .

Hi Dave,

I will offer my guidance with respect to assembling and adjusting steering gear boxes. I do not do it frequently but I have had good results with 3 completely different design Chevy steering gears ('37 Master, '49 3100, '72 Corvette) Hopefully this will help you decide how to proceed.

The first step I do is to make sure that all the adjustments (there are 3 on your Master Deluxe box) are positioned (backed off) so they are not applying any load to any of the moving components. I do this so I know that I can mechanically assemble the various covers and plates tightly. These pieces are often the foundation for the adjustments. I do not want any adjustment holding a cover or housing out of position. When I have completely assembled the box I check to make sure I can feel slop in all 3 movements (the pitman arm end play, the steering shaft end play, and the sector to gear motion). I add the grease and operate the box through quite few cycles to distribute it. I also liberally (not in the political sense) coat the various moving parts with grease while I assemble the box.

I do adjust the box before I put it into the car. I do that in case something did not assemble correctly. It is a lot easier to fix it. Typically I do adjust the box in the car again after driving maybe 25 miles or so.

I adamantly follow the adjustment sequence described in the shop manual. Once you realize how the box operates you can see that each adjustment sets the base for the next one. For a rebuilt box I expect to go through the sequence at least twice before I am satisfied. That is because the first series of adjustments might be so large that everything does not settle into place properly with just one round.

Now for my "trick". I use a very sensitive torque wrench (0 to 300 ounce inches) to adjust these boxes. When you read the shop manual the instructions show the use of a spring scale at the end of a spoke on the steering wheel to check the turning resistance for each adjustment. I simply measure that distance and multiply it by the stated spring scale force converted to ounces. The force is typically stated as a range of pounds of pull. That gives me a range of torque values for rotating the steering shaft.

I attached pictures of the torque wrench. I made it sometime in the early 80's when I was working on the Corvette steering gear. About a year ago I checked the calibration on it (I use heavy fishing weights) and it was still as accurate as the day I made it. That is the beauty of a beam type torque wrench.

I apologize if this got too detailed and long. Next to brakes I consider steering a critical feature on a car. So I take the time to make sure it is right.

Thank you Lou, Rusty.

I will let you both know how it goes.

Well boys,

The up-date from Lares Corp., it appears that they do not give out information, nor do they sell parts. So I will use the info supplied by Lou and Rusty, which I will try to finish this weekend,

Thank you, both.

It is unfortunate but not surprising that Lares is not very forthcoming with support.

I know you will do a great job. Let us know the results.

Hello Rusty, Lou,

The steering box is all together but I'm not sure that I'm getting the clearances that the books call for. I have a Motors manual and the shop manual that came with the car and of course they both say the same thing.

I had hoped to have a local guy help me but he has been sick with a miss diagnosed Lyme disease, as much as I think he would like to help, I think his wife may have put restrictions on visitors.

So if there is anyone in the New England area that might know someone who could take a look at my work/adjustments, I would really appreciate it.

I don't want to put it in the car only to find out I did something wrong.