VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt generator?or regulator or?

will aruuning vehicle stay running when the negative cable is removed?

If equipped with a generator that is functional, YES!

Thanks Ray,now i know for sure its not curently functional,just gotta figure out why.Dang thing.

If engine is at slow idle speed generator is not charging and engine will not run----correct???

Hi slowrider,

For a quick check on the generator, remove the fan belt, run a wire from the battery positive post to the wire coming out of the generator that goes to the voltage regulator and is marked BTRY or the one with a cut-out that says GEN.

This connection should make the generator run like a motor. If it does not run, the generator needs repair.

Your attention is directed to the last comment by Chev Nut.

If i understand Chevgene,s post what youre saying is the generator will only run the engine with batery disconected at speeds above idle.I tryed at high rpms and the engine died.Ill have to try rays sugestion next.

finally able to work on my truck and this is where im at.I ran a hot wire from the battery to the regulator battery wire with the belt off nothing.Iremoved the generator and left the wires on and grounded the generator and ran the hot lead to it and it spins.I tryed again at the regulator and nothing untill i pushed in on the contacts on the regulator above the batt wire and it spins.Does this indicate a bad voltage regulator?

It indicates that the regulator needs maintenance and adjustment. Seldom does a regulator go "BAD".

I tryed 3 different regulators,i cant imagine there all bad?Still doesnt charge.This is my daily vehicle.Ive bveen charging all night,defrosting and then freezing to work so i can run the headlights and carry a 12 volt booster pack when i loose power on the way home.this is driveing me crazy.

Did you polarize the generator each time you replaced the voltage regulator?

yup,every one. i belive ive got a couple more i can try.Idont see a spark every time though.Is there some thing else in the circuit i could be missing?would a bad amp guage cause this?

You should get a spark when you polarize the generator. If your ammeter isn't working then no charge will be shown. Do you have a spare ammeter that you can try?

By the way, what year Chevrolet are you working on?

The truck is a 51 .The engine is a 54 235.Was my first vehicle bought in 76.Ido have constant current at the batt terminal on the regulator but as stated do not see a spark every time when i try to polorize the generator.I think i have another amp guage,can i bench test one easaly?

A test light or VOM can test the ammeter. You can also check to see if you have 6V at the regulator. The regulator is just electric switches that prevent the draining of the battery when the engine is shut off, and control the field to only generate power when the battery voltage is less than the setting in the regulator.

Chipper ,could you explain the method of testing with a test light.Can i test both the one in the truck and test on the bench the spares?I toopk the test light and get power at batt terminal on the regulator.Nothing at the field or generator terminal untill i manualy push in the contacts at the batt terminal and then i get curent at the generator terminal on the regulator and at the generator.

Slowrider: As I understand from your previous postings, your battery is still going dead after you drive the car and you believe that your generator is not charging. Also, your generator will "motor" when tested.

Contrary to popular belief, a generator can still motor and not charge. Therefore, you need to run a test to find out if your problem is with the generator (that's my guess since you have installed three voltage regulators at this point) or your voltage regulator.

To find out if the problem is with the generator or voltage regulator, remove the wire from the "F" or "FLD" terminal on the voltage regulator and then connect it to ground. Next, increase your engine speed. If your ammeter shows charge then the problem is with the voltage regulator. If there is no charge, then the problem is in the generator.

Good luck!

Thanks all for your time and knowledge.Since the amp guage isnt working i turned on the lights and put heater on high and watched to see if lights got any brighter when i grounded the field wire.Didnt..Im going to have to surender and drive as is for now till i can get the generator in 2 weeks.What bites is im haveing the same problem with wifes alt.Took it in to have tested and was told the internal regulator was bad and they didnt have one.Took it to a differnt parts store that had the regulator, went to have them put it in for me and was told it looked good but the brush holder and 1 brush was bad.They replaced brushes and holder and NOW the alt wont charge over 40 mph. 6 OR 12 Volts,there both against me!!!

Hi slowrider,

If I read this correctly, your alternator charges up to 40 MPH, and then it does what? Show steady "O" or show a discharge? If it returns to the center ("O") I would consider this normal.

To check this system, all you need is a voltage meter. Place across the battery and measure the volts at idle, or stopped, and then rev the engine up and observe the voltage. It should increase at a faster RPM. If it does, you are in good shape.

If you power disconnect the wires to one terminal, power the other side of the ammeter and then touch the test light to disconnected terminal when the light is clamped to a good ground it will light if the ammeter is ok. With everything hooked up and power to one side of the ammeter, checked with the light. Then check the other side to see if it lights also. If it lights then the ammeter is likely ok. Feedback from one of the circuits can fool you. Then check across the terminals. If the test light lights brightly then the the ammeter is likely open. If a dim light then likely ok. As you can tell it is best to test with one terminal disconnected. As with most electrical testing a VOM is much better than a test light as you get an actual reading.

My wifes ride is a 98 ferd wind star minivan.This sumer while towing a popup camper with the cruise and air on and the over drive locked out the idiot light came on while driveing.AT abought 60 mph going down the freeway and all of the sudden the radio quit.I looked at the cluser and saw the idiot light on and shortly there after the speedo droped to 0 and then it died.Came to a stop and shut off the air and the radio.hit the key started right up and all was fine.Got up to 60 hit the cruise and the light came back on.Shut the cruise off and the light went out.Further down the highwayit came backon so iturned the over drive on and we were ok the rest of the way as long as i didnt use the air,overdrive lock out or the cruise. Its been fine till recently when you would excellerate hard it would come on and then go outwhen up to speed.Then it was more frequent lights would dim and then get bright.Finnaly it craped out the other day on my sons way home from work.Ijumped it for 5 minuets then followed my other son home without the lights on.One brush holder was stuck out so that one brush was abought 1/4 inch long the other abought an inch or so.The parts store installed a new brush holder and brushes.At idle its charging fine and driveing with the lights on or off iff you exellerate hard the idiot light come s right on.Takeing it easy its good till abought 45 and then the light comes on and headlights will dim and heater drop off.The parts store cheked it after putting in new brushes and said it was putting out 14 amps.The first parts store that tested it said there was no output.I do have a digital VOM just not sure where to set it to read the right scale.

I would approach this problem by a process of elimination.

Remove the alternator and take to an electrical shop that has the correct equipment to properly test it. It should put out 60 to 80 amps depending on the individual unit. Some more and some less.

If the alternator checks good it is probably time to visit the dealer. He will have equipment that can check the complete electrical system on your van. He will also have the added knowledge of checking the web for other vehicles that have had this problem.

We have long since reached the point that only qualified personnel should attempt any repairs on our vehicles. Electronics are very fragile and a miscue can do hundreds of dollars worth of damage.

Just an observation, but combining a modern car in this thread with an antique is chance for much confusion. I'm not saying that problems with modern vehicles should not be broached on this forum, however there are other sites much more suited for that vintage.

"The parts store cheked it after putting in new brushes and said it was putting out 14 amps."

Don't you mean 14 VOLTS instead of 14 amps? :confused: :confused:

Ray,Ididnt intend to bring up the non vintage vehicle here.I was on a rant after determining with the help i recieved here that my generator was bad,and the problems with the other vehicle after the alterator was suposibly fixed didnt help.Electricity and i dont get along.With funds tight and both vehicles being unreliable i was prety bumed out.I try to do do my own repairs out of necesity.I drive my 51 daily year round.While i would probably be better off with a modern vehicle,i dont want one.To me a vitage chevy is the only way to go.With the greatly apreciated help i recive here i hope its for a long time to come. Ron. (J.D.,should have been volts)

At 14 volts, it sounds like your alternator is putting out what it should. Did the voltage drop off when the engine speed was increased?

Update: Just heard from "slowrider" and he had his generator tested and it was defective. The generator has been repaired and it is now working as it should.