VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Wood replacement

Morning I have a 31 Chev Independence AE both “a” pillars are shot and need replacing. I have a kit from Autowood just not sure where to start. Looks like a lot of fasteners nuts are on the outside between the wood and metal frame?. I also need to figure out how to tie into the existing wood as the rot has moved into adjacent pieces. Any help or links would be appreciated. I know this has to be done carefully as this will affect my door gaps

The most important fact for us to understand is what body style is your AE?

Take three times as many photos as you think in your wildest dreams you will need. Position a tape measure or yard stick in openings and between parts and take copious notes so you can duplicate or properly alter pieces and positions.

There are reprints of Fisher Body Manuals that cover the repair and adjustment of Fisher Bodied cars. Those include several other makes in addition to Chevrolet. There are part lists and illustrations in the Master Price List (aka parts book) for 1929-32. I suggest purchasing a reprint from The Filling Station or other supplier.

2door coach. I have restored a lot of vintage cars. However I have never worked with wood

On a 1931 Coach it will be necessary to either move the sheet metal back or pry it apart in the front or move the cowl assembly forward to replace the "A" pillars. Obviously the interior and doors will need to be removed as well. Depending on the extent of rot and deterioration some pieces may be able to be spliced instead of totally replaced. The Fisher Body Manual contains information on splicing techniques.

You will find that there are four major pieces on each side that need to fit together properly. The main sill, "A" pillar, cross piece behind the dash and top rail. Those set the front of the door opening. The main sill, top rail and "B" pillar determine the back, top, and bottom of the door opening.

I believe I have the Fisher book splicing I think will be challenging

Splicing is challenging but if one takes their time in preparing the parts not too difficult. Generally angle or offset splices are much preferred to butt splices. I recently did an offset splice on the bottom of an "A" pillar. Didn't take too long to restore the strength of the part. Did require several wood working tools and remembering how best to use them.

Thanks for the advice. I found my Fisher Body book. Looks like preparing the installed piece in the car for the joint cut will be challenging

Yes 90 year old wood can be quite brittle. Any movement of the wood will ultimately loosen the fasteners that hold the wood and sheet metal in place. On my 29 coupe there is a little rot right where the A pillar attaches to the windshield header on the drivers side only. I intend to copy about the top 18" or so of the wood kit A pillar I have and splice it in there. That should help the drivers door significantly. If some year I end up totally rebuilding the body I will still have a complete body wood kit. Or I can sell it as a complete kit.

Art,
That is exactly what I did on the '31 Cabriolet "A" pillar. Copied the original rotted wood to match the mating piece and offset spliced it to the original pillar. The Rodman replacement would have either required modification to adjust the door alignment or work to use the alignment that already existed. Besides the owner has another '31 Cabriolet with "A" pillars replaced by pine dimension lumber. The new Rodman parts will be used on that project.

Yup, had to replace all the cab wood in a 34’ pickup because of the previous restorer using house framing lumber and even laminating in paneling when they needed more thickness. No glue but sheet rock screwed it all together! Even the door latch wood had been spliced with furring strip wood, sheet rock screwed together. The top and bottom of the door could be pushed out a couple inches with the door latched!

Thinking you can’t really call that job a restoration. Do it right, do it once