VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 50 coupe 235 engine swap problems

put a 56-235 in my 50 coupe if would have known about small problems would have put original motor back in put a short shaft water pump in went to put fan blade on now it hits the balancer before i shell out more money other than a spacer is there another fan blade that will work it looks like it will be too close to the radiator if i put on a spacer certainly some one else has gone thru this does some one have a pic on how the the muffler support at the rear where the tail pipe goes into the muffler is mounted cant find a pic of it anywhere it is a stock exhaust system

I have always said that modifying vehicles opens a can of rattle snakes that WILL turn around and bite. Mind you I dont always take notice of this and do the modifications anyway.
Tony

I am putting a 54 235 in my 51 and the exhaust system was purchased for a 50-53 car with powerglide. I got the system from NCA and it is not as original but the muffler /tailpipe hanger seems fine. The tailpipe itself seems about 4" short and does not center over the axle but until I have the body on the chassis I won't adjust. For shipping purposes they make the tailpipe in two parts. I will probably have a one piece made locally. The exhaust pipe did not have the insert for the donut on front but I did have one and installed it. Can't help with the fan issue as I have not installed the radiator. I did look thru some literature I copied from Patricks and the Stovebolt forum and there is no mention of fan issues other than using the shortened water pump or possibly moving the radiator forward.Photo attached.

The 1953 and prior mufflers are the same length, 216 or 235. . The 1950-1953 235 muffler has larger inlet and outlet pipes on the muffler.
The 1953 235 tail pipe will work on a 1950-1952 with a 235 muffler. 1954 has the much longer muffler and shorter tail pipe.
The parts book has a good picture of the mounting behind the muffler for 1953 and prior models.

I ran into the same problem on my '46 Fleetmaster coupe when I installed a '61 235. I ended up putting an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator. It it my understanding that a fan is not necessary except when stopped or low speeds. So my advice is "Drive faster!"

Thanks Gene. I'll go back and change my post as the muffler I had on my 216 is 4" shorter. It came from Waldrons in Michigan . Had other issues when installing and ended up at a Meineke shop to finish the installation.

Hi Steve,

There is some interesting information in the Stovebolt Forum about installing 235's in older trucks. Someone makes a water pump relocation kit that raises the water pump so the fan is more centered in the radiator. And further away from the balancer.

I am just like Tony! I know that doing modifications is a quick way to create my one problems. But I somehow still manage to convince myself to do it!!

i have seen those but am not a big fan of drilling holes into a block where they dont belong some where in gm they had to make a steel flatter bladed fan after 1955 that will work some one mentioned bending the curved part of the blade and adding a spacer to move it forward of the pump but wont that knock out of balance some where out there some one has had the same problem and solved it with a different blade

What is the distance from the radiator to the fan mounting face on the water pump? Also the distance from the center of the mount to the top of the balancer?

I have two 1950 cars with 235's. There is a solution, just keep asking and trying.

My convertible even has power steering. Just takes some engineering.

well the old saying 2 minds are better than 1 i think finally got it figured out with the help of another old guy who does street rods all i have to do now is find the correct spacer and the other question i had asked found my answer in 8 of shop manual being in hurry does not help the situation but glad am member of this club and knowing CHEVY GENE is around to point us guys in the right direction

Could you share some details of the solution you used? It would help others who might make a similar swap.

Thank you!

Over at the Stovebolt there are a lot of happy owners using the relocation plate. However since you don’t want that, there are after market suppliers that make plastic fans. You can trim those to size.

I know this is an older thread but, I put a 1962 chevy 235 in my 1948 chevy coupe and had the same problem. What I did is bend the blades away from the balancer and towards the radiator just enough to clear the balancer. When the engine is running the centrifugal force will pull the blades slightly towards the radiator, no need for a spacer.

I can offer no help on the instant questions about the relocation of exhaust system or the fan clearance.

What I can do is offer my opinion (which will probably worthless) to the modification of the first posters questions. That is, if I wanted a more modern car, I would trade up until I got one that satisfied my desires.

The 1954 235 and later 235s were great engines,

By the time the 1950 216 came out Chevrolet had twicked the thing to about all they could improve on and it too was a good engine.

I would suggest to the first poster here, to reconsider his 216 and put it in good condition and slip it back in. If its a question of speed he wants then a 50 up 3:55 or 3:74 out of a 53/54 up standard transmission would serve well also.

That would end the dilemma of the fan and exhaust problems and get you down the road just fine.

Note: I'm not sure about the ratio of the 53/54 standard differential. I'm merely repeating from memory what Gene posted some time ago. I don't know if my memory serves me right or not. I'm sure he will be glad to set the record straight here. I hope so.

Best,

Charlie

1953 and up sticks has a 3.70 which is a good choice.

For completeness' sake, here is a link to the Stovebolt discussion about swapping engines: https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engine_swap_216.htm

Cheers, Dean