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#442196 05/03/20 06:37 PM
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How many teeth are on the flywheel ring gear of a '36 Chevy?

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Is this a "hillbilly" joke? Ha ha ha

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I believe it is 132 TH.

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I am going to attempt to reduce engine vibration by adding weights to the flywheel. It is a cut and try endeavor. You divide the flywheel into 12 parts like the clock then add weight to one spot (an ounce to start) make notes. I wanted the number of teeth so I could divide the flywheel into 12 parts. This is no joke! The other option is to tear down the engine and properly balance the engine.

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You might want to adjust your timing by using your Octane Selector Knob near your distributor before going to all that trouble.

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Krugerbenz I think you are going to do more damage than you will fix and possibly destroy the flywheel and a lot of other parts. I have seen some results of your idea and they were no pretty, broken flywheel, clutch, bell housing and drivers foot.
Have it proffessionally balanced and save yourself a lot of grief.
Tony


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I think you will notice that the flywheel already has some factory balancing holes drilled near the outside edge. I don't know how precisely the factory balance was done. You might be able to make some difference. I suspect that you will spend more time than if you had the whole engine with clutch parts balanced professionally.


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KB,

My parts book for 1929- 50 doesn't list the ring gear separate from the flywheel. Number of teeth not listed.

You can take the cover off an mark a tooth and then rotate the engine (have buddy or missus luv2 turn the crank slowly whilst you do the counting. There is no way to go about this chore of counting the teeth without the collection oil all over your clothes so take your clothes off before crawling under there. It's harder to get oil off your skin than it wash it out of your clothes. Is too! (If you're married then much less nagging directed at you.)

Group no. 0.666 and part no. 837243.

As the flywheel and its gear are already balanced, I would think the vibration is coming from somewhere else.

I doubt adding weights to the flywheel is a likely fix for any otherwise cause for vibration. Nonetheless, if doing so results in less engine vibration then such fix will only be masking the real problem.

I agree with Tony (down under one). Also, I admit that I don't know what to tell you other than check the harmonic balancer and I have no expectation that that could be the culprit.

Maybe change spark plugs. Most times they fire but sometimes they don't. Sort of like a cat obeying you. They don't: unless to do so is within their own best interest at the time. Think some miffed missusses luv2:too. Agrin: (That missusses is more difficult to say and spell than hippopotamuses. Is too!)

Good luck,

Charlie computer


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1935 and 1936 has 133 teeth.

If you have a vibration , usually peaks around 40 MPH, you can add washers to the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. It wil be a trial and error procedure. One washer behind two adjoining bolts will make a big difference.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 05/05/20 12:39 PM.

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Jene,

I'm always in the market for education on our old Chevrolets. With that in mind and with a great deal of respect for your depth of knowledge, I have an observation from you last post that is puzzling to me.

The 1929-50 Chevrolet parts book states in group 0.666 for all 1936 flywheels with ring gear, " casting number 837243 - less guide pins- "UC" timing mark 133 (with a small "o" degrees symbol right after 133) clockwise from dowel hole)"

That seems to infer that "UC" timing mark is 133 degrees from the dowel hole. With the dowel hole then being at the 360 degree position. Just so, then "UC" would be lacking 17 degrees to be at the 180 degree position.

How the 133 degrees translates to a tooth count for the total number of teeth on the ring gear is beyond me. Please explain for I would appreciate clarification/explanation. Or was that an assumption by you?

What is you source for the tooth count of 133 teeth?

What does "UC" stand for anyway?

Thanks,

Charlie computer

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My 1939 parts books says 13 5/16" gear diameter -133 teeth.


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Wow,

Nice to learn something new and more bester every day. dance

Thanks, Gene.

Charlie computer


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I have learned more than anybody since I have been on this chat site. carrot


Gene Schneider
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Thank you all for your advice on engine balance. I tried adding about one ounce to all of the 6 clutch bolts one at a time. It was a lot of work since the weights would strike the top of the bell housing at each side of the inspection hole. I ground the bell housing until I had sufficient clearance and then made a new larger cover plate. At this point I would say I have been unsuccessful in making any difference in the vibration. I will try changing the timing as suggested and then adding less weight. Most of the vibration comes at 1800 RPM.

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Have you balanced the piston assemblies yet?


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If during the years someone replaced one or two pistons; they may not be made of the same material as the original ones. The difference in weight would cause vibration. There are different pistons made for these cars over the years. Some claiming to be so called "improved". Make sure all your pistons are at least the same.

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The pistons are aluminum so when this engine was overhauled they changed the pistons and I assume they did not balance the engine. There is evidence at number 5 there is a brazed hole in the pan. It may have thrown a rod and the replacement rod not matched with the others. I don't know. Just a guess. I tried changing the timing both ways without any change in the vibration. I don't plan to pull the engine at my age.

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Charlie,
I was searching for something and saw that you asked a question here. "What does UC stand for?"

Nobody responded. I know that this was almost a year ago, but I thought that you might like to see the answer so that you can finally sleep again.

And --- the answer was always at THIS LOCATION (you should have known). Read the first sentence closely.


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Is there an oopsie here?
If you are at 12 degrees with the knob all the way in, you can't go any farther.
Shouldn't we say "Set for 18 degrees advance with the knob all the way in."?
Is the required advance above spec due to better fuel?
WL


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The recommendation for the advanced timing is primarily due to the slower burning 85-87 octane gasoline versus the 50-60 octane fuels when the cars were built. Hotter spark (larger spark plug gap) and advanced timing realize more of the power in modern gasoline.


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That was my theory.
My point was that you have to set the timing at 18, with the knob against the dash, since that's the max advance position.
WL


Wilson

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