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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 49 |
Hey everyone. I was able to find a used clutch pressure plate for my 28. I was hoping to get some advice on what to do with it as far as overhauling it. Or should I just leave it alone? Any pointers on what I should do with other clutch parts would also be appreciated. Thanks. Jim Crowell
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511 Likes: 48
ChatMaster - 3,000
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ChatMaster - 3,000
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,511 Likes: 48 |
Hi Jim, Welcome to the VCCA's website! This is THE place to hob knob with old Chevy folks (vehicles and people!). Both of my trucks (see links below) have '28 engines and when I did work in the clutch area, the only thing I did to the pressure plate was to lightly sand the surface to remove surface rust. I did put new clutches in both trucks and also changed the throw out bearing to a newer ball bearing type. The carbon disc bearing was known to overheat and crack, so I feel peace of mind knowing that the newer technology is in there. I bought the clutches from Billy Possum ( http://www.billypossum.com/Catalog/Catalog.php) and the throw out bearings from the Filling Station ( http://www.fillingstation.com/). Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 49 |
Thanks Dean. I have a new clutch disk on the way. I will take your advice on the throw out bearing. Thanks for the input and the links.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
There are several areas of a pressure plate to inspect. First is the surface that contacts the clutch plate. If there is any rust it will be necessary to sand or machine it smooth. Hairline cracks often appear in the flywheel but are not as likely in the pressure plate. If present cracks need to be evaluated and possibly machined out. If material needs to be removed an equivalent amount might need to be removed from the surface that bolts to the flywheel.
The arms can also wear at both the pivots and the ends. It may be necessary to build up those ends and maybe bush the pivot passages and replace the pins.
Visually check the springs for condition and test by compressing. Best with a device that displays the resistance. If that is not available then step on the plate and measure the defection at various spots around the assembly. The deflection should be the same around the plate. If all that checks out okay then install it and see how well it works.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 49
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 49 |
Thanks for all the advice. I will be sure to keep it in mind.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,213 Likes: 1
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,213 Likes: 1 |
When I re-built the pressure plate assy in my '28 truck,I found a lot of the wear problem(it would shudder like hell) was on the faces of the 4 flat plates that the internal ends of the release levers lift to release the pressure plate ring off the clutch plate.The original lever pins were worn,as were their holes,but I used the plain shanks of 4 Unbrako shouldered screws to make new ones,and luckily the holes were worn to a nice slide fit 10mm bore.One quick check you can do,is to put the throwout collar back into the fully assembled flywheel,clutch plate & pressure plate assy,and measure the distance from the underside of the collar flange to the top of the pressure plate assy.If it's less the a 9/16" minimum distance,then a full re-build of the whole pressure plate assy is indicated.
CJP'S 29
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