VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 Water pump test

Anyway to bench test 1928 water pumps? Have 3, need the 2 best and would like to know before install as fan very close to radiator. They all spin but would like to test shaft seal. Filling Station out of rebuild kits. Thanks

I don't know a way to test off the engine. If they spin freely and the packing nut is snug and not fully seated the packing probably is okay. You can always add more packing. Might not last if the shaft is not smooth.

I do not know if you noticed or not but there were two different lengths of water pumps in 28. One was for the trucks and was pretty much a continuation of the 26/27 pump. The other one was for the cars and was 3/4 to 1" longer than the trucks. Which model you are working on dictates which pump shaft to start with. The pulleys can be taken off with a steering wheel puller, and a heavily pitted impellor can be pressed off an otherwise good shaft. The pulleys are different from one another. If you had a good car shaft/impellor combination it could be cut down for a truck pump.

To clarify beachbum's post, everything he says is correct with respect to the 1928 one ton trucks.

The 1/2 ton trucks were made on the AB car chassis so they have the longer water pump shaft just like the cars.

Cheers, Dean

These are off the two motors each with different empellers. The bottom one has the oil drip flap intact and both have the grease cap. Which is better?

Don't forget Dean,that the '28 1/2 ton chassis had a different rear cross member as the spare tyre & rim sat under it like a 1 ton truck and the petrol tank was a truck tank,but under the seat.
The top pump has the correct impeller,but the bottom one looks like it has a 6cyl impellor on it.

Going by your photo, the impeller fitted to the pump on the bottom is not correct for a 4 cylinder Chev.
It may be of a 1929 or later.