Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#451588 12/11/20 07:57 AM
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Every time I take the 41 Cabriolet out for a drive everything seems fine; that is until I stop and shut the engine down for a few minutes,

When I try to start it after it has run long enough to stabilize the temperature, the starter seems to drag. I keep thinking I need to rebuild or replace the starter.

The last time this happened I raised the hood and wiggled the cables to the battery. The ground cable has a disconnect on it, The contact for the disconnect is one that has a female and male slot with a threaded turn knob for securing the two ends. This disconnect was hot and a bit loose. It does not work very well when I want to disconnect the battery because the male end doesn't want to slide out as easy as it should. I therefore keep it tight but probably not tight enough and therefore have a poor ground evidenced by the hot cable.

After having almost fried the 41 SD coupe one time, I like the idea of disconnecting the battery before fighting electrical fires. I therefore leave the ground cable loose enough to twist it loose if in an emergency. That's on the coupe. The Cabriolet has the stinking quick release.

Thanks for staying with me here and now the questions.

a. Should I just go with a braided strap?

b. Should I try another brand and type of quick disconnect? (One mounted to the firewall, for instance.)

c. What is the best disconnect and who sells them?

d. Does a quick disconnect trigger points off. (This is not a big concern but it would be a mental annoyance if it does.)

Thanks and let me know your experience with disconnects and advice as what the best approach would be.

Best wishes,

Charlie computer

BTW: Please do not skew this thread. Any discussion, however slight, about anything other than a 6-volt ground strap or a quick disconnect switch may result in a reprimand. You know. bike


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A heavy duty turn type kill switch is what I use and also Bears Fan 315 has a post about the one he installed. While it does require some non original modification it is quick and easy to use. For Example https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200817390_200817390

Last edited by m006840; 12/11/20 09:08 AM.

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Charlie,

Lots of discussion on the AACA forum about how bad and even dangerous the switch type you are using can be.

I went with the one below because of its high short and long term amp carrying capacity. It was expensive but I did not want a short cut at this point in the system,

Dave

part number 75908-BX

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Last edited by Dave39MD; 12/11/20 09:31 AM.
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Good topic and questions Charlie.

I was thinking about adding a disconnect switch so did some web surfing and investigation.

I learned 2 things.

People will argue forever about whether the cutoff should be on the negative or positive side. I never saw any facts to convince me that one was better than the other.

Many of the cutoff switches being sold are marginal for the starting current draw of these 6 volts cars.


Rusty

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Thanks for the responses so far.

Dave, How is that thing mounted? Does it go through the firewall with the handle on the inside of the cab or some other way.

Where would I look for one? eBay, amazon?

Best,

Charlie computer

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I think I got mine on amazon but you can google it for the specs. Mounting can be done a lot of ways I liked bears fan way but the first car I put it on has the original mat and floor boards. I mounted mine on the positive side with a heavy brass bar to the starter switch, putting the switch between the battery and starter. A guy on the Buick forum put his that way (on starter) and rigged a pull switch from the inside of the car with a choke cable. You can turn his on and off from the inside. I will try and find those old posts and put a link up here.

Dave

Last edited by Dave39MD; 12/12/20 08:03 AM.
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Charlie,

A couple of other thoughts I think I would feel better if it was on the negative side and I could switch it on and off from inside. I use mine for the garage fire comfort so mine is okay the way it is.

The closer to the battery you can place it the better, less cable. Some have put them in their glove box. Still looking for Don's post.

Dave

Here is a link https://forums.aaca.org/topic/350634-like-to-find-a-remote-battery-kill-switch-for-my-6-volt-%E2%80%9848-lincoln/?tab=comments#comment-2106360

Last edited by Dave39MD; 12/12/20 07:44 AM.
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Dave, Thanks. That would be helpful.

Everyone: How about points being taken off by judges.

Maybe it should be looked at as any other safety items would be, such as, fire extinguisher and seat belts. dance

Best,

Charlie computer

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I found the instructions and pictures Don sent and will try to attach. If it does not work send me your email.

Dave

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Battery Cutout.docx (592.78 KB, 75 downloads)
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When I am disconnecting a battery I always disconnect the ground side first, that way if I accidently short the that side to ground there is no damage but with the switch I dont think it makes any difference.
Tony


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This is what i did on my 1929 and no problems. really like it. I use the disconnect to kill the ground, as i also have the quick connects for my battery tender, so i can flip open the battery hatch door, and connect the tender and let it go :)

Building Battery & Ground Cables w/ Disconnect Switch


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