Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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jmmmn37 Offline OP
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I am working on a 1951 Suburban in which a previous owner installed a 1952 235 ci engine. The carburetor on the engine looks to be a Rochester B, 7007181--with automatic choke (I realize that carb was generally used on passenger cars in 1956, etc.). The engine seems to run well--I've taken it for short spins, but mostly I start it in order to move the truck in and out of my work shed, while I work on other aspects of the truck. Gas is currently supplied from a small auxiliary tank, until I get a new tank installed and fuel lines run, etc. If the truck is not started for a day or two, it usually takes a squirt or two of starting fluid into the carb throat to start it up; it then usually starts right up and runs rough for a few seconds (while I pump the accelerator on and off), then smooths out and idles well.

All my other old Chevrolets have manual choke carburetors--this is the first automatic choke that I've worked with. Here's my question: looking straight on at the carb from the radiator, there are two threaded nipples on the auto choke--one on the bottom right side, which is connected to a tube that runs from the base of the carburetor. The other is on the left side at 9 o'clock. Currently on my carb, there is nothing attached there. I don't see any line that would/should seem to attach there--what should be attached there? The line from the vacuum advance is currently running into the base of the carb and is attached accordingly. What am I missing?

I have tried to attach a picture, which I hope comes across. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim

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"there is nothing attached there"
A tube runs from the heat stove on the exhaust manifold to the automatic choke thermostatic spring. With no heat the choke will never open up. The heat stove clamps around the manifold. Years ago I bought a kit from NAPA. There is a slight vacuum in the tube to move the heat to the choke.
To cold start a car with an automatic choke it is necessary to depress the gas pedal about 1/2 way first. This allows the choke plate to close and pulll up the fast idle cam. As the choke slowly warms up the idle should drop..
I have an automatic choke on my 1950 and it starts and runs perfectly.

The carburtor pictured would be from a 1953 Power Glide or a 1953-1955 standard trans. car due to te plastic coke cover.


Gene Schneider
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jmmmn37 Offline OP
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Dear Gene,

Thanks so much for the quick reply and the valuable information. I hope I can find a suitable kit--I'll check my NAPA and also the aftermarket Chevy dealers. If someone else has recently acquired such a kit, I would appreciate hearing the source.

Much appreciated.

Jim

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The 3 screws around the plastic cover allow you to adjust the choke.

With the aIr cleaner removed you should see the choke plate snap closed when you open the throttle about half way on a cold engine.

As the engine warms up the warm air will go up the tube and act on the thermostatic spring. As the spring gets hotter it should open the choke plate. When the engine is at operating temperature the plate should be fully open.

You can loosen the 3 screws and turn the plastic cover the appropriate direction to make sure the choke plate is in the correct position.


Rusty

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jmmmn37 Offline OP
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Rusty,

Thanks for the info. I checked and my choke plate does snap closed when the throttle is opened. Upon closer inspection, I also discovered that the clamped portion of the choke stove is still on my manifold--the connecting tube has been removed and discarded. I ordered a kit at my NAPA and will pick it up this afternoon. The kit has the connecting pipe and correct attaching nuts, etc. So, I should be in business soon.

Thanks again for the help!

Jim

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Great plan! Let us know how things work out.


Rusty

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Hello jmmmn3: could you give the NAPA part # for that "kit""
Thanks David

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jmmmn37 Offline OP
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David,

The NAPA info is as follows: "Choke Stove Universal"; part no.: 610-1116. The kit contains a "stove" (which is half-round rather that flat like my original, but should still work), a clamp for the stove, a tube, a fabric sleeve for the tube, and a compression washer and nut. Less than $10.

Jim

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Hello Jim: Thank you for the part# for the "Choke Stove Universal" kit
David


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