Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 200
Likes: 1
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 200
Likes: 1
I'm doing a full restoration from ground up restoration. I'm rebuilding the starter, generator and distributor. I was wondering if I should powder coat instead of spray can the bodies of the generator, starter and distributor?

Mind you these are 1927 components. I am also looking to compete in car shows later down the line.

I am also putting new remanufactured tags on with the original numbers from the original tags.

Last edited by Thorpe_and_Sons; 09/16/20 03:33 AM.

Thorpe & Sons - VCCA Member #: 51593
1927 Chevrolet 1-Ton Panel Delivery Truck
"Wilford"
Blog and Pictures
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,894
ChatMaster - 1,500
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,894
I've been going through the same process for awhile. I've avoided powder coating as the finish does not look like the original finish would have and the finish thickness can cause fitment issues as powder is thick. It's fairly reasonable to do so worth considering on some parts possibly like rims or complete frames as the powder coater does all the prep work.

Paint is another issue as a rattle can spray is not the same as it was 20 or 30 years ago. The products are very inferior due to environmental changes and many paints are not chemically compatible with others so they bubble or peel immediately. It's annoying, especially when you just want to spray a few parts semi-gloss black.

You also want the ability to be able to touch up parts down the road when you damage something wrenching so you either have to use the same paint everywhere and keep spare paint for years or find a neutral product you can easily redo. For things like starters, distributors, I've been using quality ENAMEL spray cans from farm supply locations that is intended for use as implement paint. It is easy to work with but is not some weird anti rust magic secret formula catalyzed brew. They also sell large cans so you can reduce it with enamel reducer and spray it from a gun for a better finish.







1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!)
1975 4-speed L82 Vette
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 31
Shade Tree Mechanic
Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 31
I restored a couple of tractors and went with paint. Mostly because it is easier to touch up or even redo down the road if I need to.

I'm torn now because my car was last painted 40 years ago and things need touched up. Not sure how the modern paint will act if I spray over the old.

Last edited by jlw53; 09/16/20 09:06 AM.
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
ChatMaster - 7,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 7,000
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 7,472
Likes: 26
I am curious which farm supply vendor you are using. I have a Tractor Supply store near me . For some of the small frame brackets etc I have been using Rustoleum direct to metal spray cans. I have been putting on a flat coat as a primer and then a gloss if that's the desired finish. While I would rather have a nice epoxy primer base it's a lot more work and cost to mix a small batch to spray in a gun and then have to clean the equipment. Also the Rustoleum DTM dries to the touch in about 8 minutes.


Steve D
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 200
Likes: 1
Backyard Mechanic
OP Offline
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 200
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by canadiantim
I've been going through the same process for awhile. I've avoided powder coating as the finish does not look like the original finish would have and the finish thickness can cause fitment issues as powder is thick. It's fairly reasonable to do so worth considering on some parts possibly like rims or complete frames as the powder coater does all the prep work.

Paint is another issue as a rattle can spray is not the same as it was 20 or 30 years ago. The products are very inferior due to environmental changes and many paints are not chemically compatible with others so they bubble or peel immediately. It's annoying, especially when you just want to spray a few parts semi-gloss black.

You also want the ability to be able to touch up parts down the road when you damage something wrenching so you either have to use the same paint everywhere and keep spare paint for years or find a neutral product you can easily redo. For things like starters, distributors, I've been using quality ENAMEL spray cans from farm supply locations that is intended for use as implement paint. It is easy to work with but is not some weird anti rust magic secret formula catalyzed brew. They also sell large cans so you can reduce it with enamel reducer and spray it from a gun for a better finish.

Thank you for your thoughts on this. It gave me something to think about. The problem is that I live in good ole California and there is no good paint lol.

Last edited by Thorpe_and_Sons; 09/16/20 11:27 PM.

Thorpe & Sons - VCCA Member #: 51593
1927 Chevrolet 1-Ton Panel Delivery Truck
"Wilford"
Blog and Pictures

Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5