VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Electrical - 6 volt 1927 6v Ignition coil and Condenser any recommendations?

I am looking at ignition coils right now. I am currently looking at this one in the link Ignition Coil says can go upto 60,000 volts its a hot ignition coil and this Condenser Condenser any advice would be useful.

I would get a couple of condensers when you order them. The 60,000 volts should throw a good spark I don't know what the down side would be but the 12 volt systems in the late 60's were at 20,000 volts if I remember the Delco Remy training films correctly.

Hopefully someone with personal experience will chime in.

Dave

I cannot make any statements about the coil’s performance.

What I can state is that once again the seller is not concerned that the application data is incorrect. This will not fit Chevy’s with the Electrolok key and sheilded cable.

Can you explain why?

The coil in the picture has both the terminals on the same end as the connection for the high tension wire to the distributor.

An Electrolok coil typical is mounted with the high tension connection and the single terminal connection to the distributor pointing down. The Electrolok cap with the shielded cable attaches to the top of the coil.

There are a couple of ways to get around this difference.

I forgot to mention this is for my 1927 chevrolet 1 ton

Sorry that I missed this was for the '27 truck/ Many times the vehicle in the signature is not necessarily the one that is the subject of the thread. That means it is an even more unusual coil configuration. I agree that it is not an Electrolok system.

I am not saying that the coil in the link will not work. I am saying that it will not fit without some effort to modify the mounting and wiring.

Its okay it was completely my fault I posted this late at night not thinking to put 1927. Can you explain your last part.

The original ignition coil on a 1927 Chevy had the high tension lead connected to the side of the coil. The coil sat vertically on top of the oil filter. The 2 primary terminals were on top. It was a larger diameter than what was used in later Chevrolet’s through the 70’s.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1927/27crm148.html

For service parts Chevy sold the modern style coil and a special mounting bracket as the replacement for the original large diameter side-terminal coil. It is actually called a “universal coil” in the Master Parts List.

Many older vehicles including those equipped with Electrolok were converted to universal coils when the original failed. Those coils were readily available at any auto parts store. If your truck has that style coil then someone did the conversion.

My ”˜37 coupe had a universal coil and a universal ignition switch when I got the car. I was able to find the parts to take it back to the Electrolok configuration.

Well I did buy the bracket and that is good to know about the fix so it was acceptable to change it. I am doing a restore on my truck it is a rust bucket. Check out my blog about it.

So my concern is about the voltage output of the coil is my original question. Also what kind of Condenser can be used spec wise.

I am always skeptical about performance statements like "rated up to 60,000 volts" especially if there is no confirming test data.

First and most important, that statement tells me nothing about the coil output under regular operating conditions. My interpretation is that if enough energy is put into the coil it will survive while putting out 60,000 volts. There is no data that tells me the inputs (voltage and amperage) required to produce that output. I wonder how long it can do that without self-destructing due to overheating.

Can you explain the operating problem you are having with the current ignition system? My experience is that a properly maintained 6 volt stock ignition system will work just fine for these vehicles.

I am sure you are aware that even 12 volt point & coil ignition systems operate at about 6 to 8 volts while running. Typically there is a resistor in the ignition circuit that reduces the 12 volts to that level except when starting the engine. This is done to increase point life.

I can offer no guidance abut a condenser.

I am Building everything from the ground up this truck is a restoration project. They did update the truck to the newer style coil but everything is rusted out so I'm rebuilding everything I mean everything from the ground up. Thank you for your advice.

Hopefully someone can give be advice on the condenser.

Here's an interesting discussion about 6v condensers: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/319534/re-all-of-a-sudden-no-spark.html#Post319534

Cheers, Dean

Dean that was very interesting thread. Now it has me thinking more.

Hello All
Just to let you all know that the coil listed in the picture has a max rating of 60,000 volt but it does not take 60,000 volts to fire the spark plug every time. it all depends upon the spark plug wire resistance, rotor tip to distributor cap contact clearance, spark plug gap and cylinder compression pressures. A well tuned engine will only require about 15-20,000 max secondary voltage to fire the spark plug depending upon the afore mentioned conditions. The best thing about a high output coil is that it will run cooler at lower outputs compared to a coil with less winding that is only rated at 20,000 volt output. Most modern 12 volt regular point operated coils are rated at 35,000 volts.

We sell a ready made to install replacement coil kit to fit 1922-28 Chevy 4 engines. This kit is modeled after the coil kit the aftermarket such as Niehoff made probably 70-80 years ago. The kit comes with a 6 volt copper wound oil filled premium coil rated at 55,000 volts, a 2 eared bracket that bolts right up to the original coil support bracket and the appropriate condenser to work with this coil. The condenser is made for GM vehicles with the correct microfarad capacity. This coil kit is priced at $85.00. Attached are a few pictures of this coil kit.

I used my archaic tester for testing coils with a drill operated distributor and 6 volt battery on this high output coil. Just by holding the spark plug wire away from the distributor housing, I can get a blue spark from 1 1/4-1 1/2 inches long. With out the spark plug wire in the high tension tower and operating the distributor, I can get a blue spark from the terminal inside the tower to the negative terminal on the coil.

How much for the bracket and Condenser?

I don’t know why you would want such a high voltage coil. I would think you could get arcing inside the distributor cap and on the outside of the ignition wires. There would be no practical advantage to using that coil.

If you are interested in a restored original coil, contact me and I will get you in contact.

A coil will only produce the voltage that is required to produce a spark the easiest path it can find, the designed path is via the spark plugs in the combustion chamber but if there is an easier circuit that is the way it will go at the needed voltage which may only be 10,000volts.
Tony

Thanks.

If the gap is too wide the coil may fail to produce enough voltage to spark at all.
Tony