VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 1931 Brake Challenges

Hello Everyone,
I am challenged with making brake systems adjustments with my 1931 Chevy Independence.
… I started with disconnecting the brake pedal return spring, pedal rod, brake rods, and parking brake rod.
… I loosen the cross-shaft bracket nut and install the brake adjusting tool (AF-19 from the Filling Station).
… I make adjustments to the brake pedal pull rod, reconnect the return spring, and tighten up the cross-shaft bracket nuts.
… I disconnected the front brake cables from the brake rods and loosen all centralizing & pivot bolts for the cam operating levers.
… I centralize all of the cam carrier brackets and tighten up the pivot & lock bolts.
… I then adjust the brakes with the drums on by loosening the cam lever adjusting lock nut and turning the bolts in until the drum drags and then back off and actuate the cam levers. Tighten up the adjusting bolts lock nuts.
… When I attempt to connect the front cables to the brake rods, the rods will not reach the cross-shaft levers to connect the clevis pins.
… What am I missing here? The brake rods are what came with the car. I replaced the front brake cables with new from the Filling Station.

Since I have never used the AF-19 gauge from the Filling Station can't comment the effect of using it to set the cross rod. What I have always used is to have the ends of the arms on the cross rod at their maximum vertical position when the brake shoes contact the drums. That produces the maximum mechanical advantage and therefore force.

The front brake cable should screw into the front rod at least 1/2 down the threads. At least that is what all of mine did. The cable needs to seat snugly into the brake rod lever housing and the end fit into the depression in the block. The block is held onto the rod with the axle of the wheel.

So what I recommend is to start at the cross shaft, attach the rod with cable screwed ~1/2 way in, back off the front arm adjuster until the rod from the housing fits the hole in the arm. Once they all match up then do the final adjustment to the rod to cable and rod to arm. Always worked for me.

Thanks for the help. Your recommendations worked. I ran through the whole brake system with adjustments without the AF-19 gauge tool. I used a square to set the cross rod on each side of the chassis. I also readjusted all of the emergency brakes. The brake pedal feels much better. No longer is the right rear drum dragging. I also found a book on Amazon titled "Adjusting GM-Huck Mechanical Brakes in 11 Easy Steps" written by Steve C. Brooks. It was less than $20 with shipping and an easy read to explain the history of Huck brakes and how to adjust them. Some better visual aides in the book as well.