I found that I have to renew my propeller shaft in my 1934 standard 6 DC. Following the parts manual it's the C type. As I live in germany it was not jet possible to find somebody doing reproductions based on the sample. There the machining specialists don't have the right tools for american type gearing at the front and rear end. Is there any source to order an new remanufactured one? I have seen in ebay a couple of years ago once that the rear and front end came as spare parts but never since. Is there a source for the single parts? Help very much appreciated.
It's not identical to your '34 but the concept is the same, a piece of tubing with male and female splines welded into the ends. Depending on what's wrong with yours (I'm guessing a groove worn in the front solid splined part by the seal or damaged splines) you may only need the male or female spline that is easily shipped and can fit into your tubing once the old splined item is removed.
In the USA a driveshaft would be easy to find because street rod builders would remove the original rear axle and consider it junk to be discarded. That was the reason I had no trouble finding the parts for my gear conversion. I wouldn't be surprised if a street rod builder would give you one for the cost of shipping. In fact, if you send me the details of the parts you need I may have them gathering dust in my shop.
Many thanks for your answer. Mine is the same type as the one in your picture. The front end has 10 splines. Front diameter is 1", diameter on the bottom of the plines is 0.84", the width of a spline on the outside is 0.19" distance between the splines is 0.118". It fits a the universal joint no 601889. The rear end is the same type of splines.(I don't know how to upload a foto).
Do you have an idea how to get in touch with street rodders in the US because they are rare over here and mostly import the cars from the US.
One driveshaft I have left over from my 4.11 to 3.55 rear gear conversion is from the 1937 Chevy car rear axle that I used to do the conversion. I did that work years ago but I remember the 1937 driveshaft diameter measurements being the same as 1936, although the 1937 driveshaft is longer. The 1937 Driveshaft I have is 1.030" (1 1/32") in diameter at the front splined area where the front bushings and seal contact the driveshaft. There are 10 splines and the width of each spline at the outside is 0.152". So the 1934-37 driveshaft would not be a fit in your torque tube.
As Terrill says street rod shops may have the parts you need. They are, however, businesses who base their prices on what the market will bear. There are a lot of rich dilettantes in the car hobby to whom cost is no object and they drive up prices. Restorers also seem to have an inflated view of what their stuff is worth. On the other hand, street rod building hobbyists tend to help each other and either give away parts like this or sell them for what they have invested in them. To a street rod builder a 1934 Chevy rear axle is scrap iron that is just taking up space.
I would suggest looking on forums like H.A.M.B. (https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/). Nationwide Craigslist may also generate some leads. A 1934 Chevy driveshaft may not be easy to find but if you cast a wide net you will succeed.
Again, I do have a 1937 Chevy car driveshaft shortened to the correct length to fit a 1936 master car or pickup. You are welcome to it but its front welded in shaft is not the diameter you need and that shaft has rust damage. Because of that damage I used it to mock up my modified 1937 car rear axle before shortening a 1937 driveshaft in pristine condition, Incidentally that perfect 1937 Chevy driveshaft was given to me by another VCCA Chat forum member for only the cost of shipping it inside a piece of PVC pipe. I later returned the favor by giving him a perfectly restored 1948 Chevy car air cleaner. That's what i mean by some hobbyists helping each other rather than trying to make money off their fellow hobbyists.
Hello Terrill many thanks for your help, I will give him a call. Thanks to Ray for your hints.
Does anybody knows something about the geometry of the splines that was used by Chevrolet at that time. Was it a standard like with bearings or unique to Chevrolet. I found a company thart could do the job but need the geometry for the milling process. Is there any infotmation about it?
If you're having splines made it would be wise to provide the machinist with the part the spline will fit into or over. That will show the machinist the geometry and also verify a correct fit when that exact point is reached.
Here's a video showing cutting splines on a milling machine using a dividing head to position the work piece for each cut:
I have a 24-position indexing head for my milling machine. It allows rotation to divide a round work piece into any number of segments that can be divided into 24 (2,3,4.6,8,12,24). One of my sons has a dividing head for his milling machine. It can divide a round work piece into any number of segments. It can make cog belt sprockets, roller chain sprockets, gears, splines and probably other things I don't know about.
If the splines you need are internal that requires broaching. This video shows that process:
If your project requires special tooling that the machinist does not have the process will be expensive. Hopefully some street rod builder will have whatever you need at an affordable price.
Interesting project about the sealed u-joints. Are you converting the current transmission and rear axle to an open driveshaft?
If you are eliminating the enclosed tube you might need to consider some additional links or arms to handle the torque reaction of the rear axle. I have never tried to determine if the axle to spring attachment alone will withstand all the torque.
If all the enclosed driveshaft systems are like my 38 the axle housing is in a locater housing but is free to rotate inside it. I this was converted to a open driveshaft the axle housings would need to be secured to the springs. Tony
Two step, It would be helpful to know what the problem is with your existing shaft. If it is the splines on each end then made up new ones can be welded in. If you have the old ones a machinist should be able to understand the design of the splines. I have two 37/38 shafts and I could part with one.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
The 1933, 34, and 35 Standard drive shaft is the same and that is all that fit. Standard drive shaft spiines are different from Master cars and 1/2 ton trucks.
