Just joined today as this forum looks like a great place to learn about my Chevy. I fell in love with this car when I was in my early teens and got to ride in a parade in it. After 20+ years of asking about it, the previous owner decided that this year it was the time to let it go. So I couldn't pass up the chance to buy it. It is a Flint car according the the body tag. I grew up in the Flint area and remember "Chevy in the hole" so I was glad to see that. Car had a fame off restoration around 1980 with all new wood in the body. It had not been on the road since about 1995 but had been started and run sometime in the last 10 years as he had pulled it out of the garage and stored it in a closed trailer. The black paint has started to spiderweb and flake off in places but other than that it is in great shape. They restored it to be as original as possible. The temp gauge is not working and appears that the pointer arm may have fallen off. How hard is it to open this up and repair? Is has the Fisher body tag on it but the Chevrolet tag that should be on the passenger floor is long gone. Is there any documentation on these cars that can tie the Fisher number or engine number together?
My plan Is to go through it this winter and make sure everything is mechanically sound and adjusted correctly. Then hopefully next year take it to some shows and cruises.
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Welcome to the forum! I don't think there is anyway to find the serial number on a missing tag unless you get lucky and it is on the title. They did not stamp them anywhere else in this time period. The engine number is different and stamped in a boss on the passenger side near the distributor.
I would seriously consider joining the VCCA, well worth the dues.
To get access to the guts of the temperature gauge it is necessary to remove the two screws that hold it to the instrument panel. Be very careful not to kink or break the tube. You might be able to pull it down far enough to see the back of the gauge and bent over parts of the bezel that hold it to the gauge body. It will be easier to get to the back of the gauge if you unscrew the bulb from the cylinder head and pull the tubing out of the firewall. Once you carefully bend back the bezel it can be removed and give access to the gauge face. It will be necessary to put the needle back in the proper position for it to be relatively accurate.
Thanks for the replies. I definitely plan on joining the VCCA. Just haven't filled out the application yet. The title has the engine number on it for identification. I was looking at the GM Heritage site and it looks like they didn't keep build records that far back?
I will give the gauge fix a try soon. Anyone have a picture of were the needle is supposed to rest when cold? I have another original gauge that the PO gave me but I'm not sure if it even works. He said he picked it up at a swap meet years ago in case he needed it to fix the one in the car.
The car has 19" wood spoke wheels on it. From what info I could find online they were available for purchase in 1930 as an option. I was hoping to find out if the car was originally purchased with these or if some decided later on that they didn't like the steel wheels and put them on later. From my online searches I've only been able to find one photo of a 1930 with wood spoke wheels. The previous owner said they are rare. How rare are they?
Great to have you on VCCA Chat. You will definitely benefit and enjoy becoming a VCCA member.
You can check the temperature gauge by putting the bulb in a pan of water on the stove while you heat the water.
Hint: Most of us do these kitchen experiments with our automotive parts when the significant other is gone. Examples are cleaning pistons in the dishwasher and heating flywheel ring gears in the oven.
The wood spoke wheels on a 1930 car are very, very rare. 1930 was the last year in which they were offered and they simply weren't very popular because the wire wheels and disc wheels were felt to be more modern. In many years of working on and looking at the '29-'32 Chevys, I've only seen one 1930 car with wood wheels.
Welcome to the group and to the VCCA. Enjoy your car!
Regarding the testing of the temp gauge, you can do your experiment outside by heating the water on the BBQ, instead of using the stove. This process might help keep domestic peace too. ;-)
Cheers, Dean
Dean 'Rustoholic' Meltz old and ugly is beautiful!
Dean has a good point. Life is definitely a continuing series of risk-reward choices.
I like to use the candy thermometer to monitor the water while it heats. I compare that reading to the gauge reading. And that utensil is in the drawer right next to the stove!
The wood spoke wheels on a 1930 car are very, very rare. 1930 was the last year in which they were offered and they simply weren't very popular because the wire wheels and disc wheels were felt to be more modern. In many years of working on and looking at the '29-'32 Chevys, I've only seen one 1930 car with wood wheels.
Welcome to the group and to the VCCA. Enjoy your car!
All the Best, Chip
Well I guess I need to post some pictures then. I did a lot of looking at pictures online before I came across one. I Joined but have not received a member number yet. I post one when I can.
Great to have you on VCCA Chat. You will definitely benefit and enjoy becoming a VCCA member.
You can check the temperature gauge by putting the bulb in a pan of water on the stove while you heat the water.
Hint: Most of us do these kitchen experiments with our automotive parts when the significant other is gone. Examples are cleaning pistons in the dishwasher and heating flywheel ring gears in the oven.
