VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 1934 Standard transmission alignment

Hey there,
I have a real problem with universal joints breaking apart. What I did so far. Gearbox completely new set up wit all NOS parts - works and shifts great, rear axle all new bearings, propeller shaft straighened, front bearing position professionally groud to meet the alignment of the rear bearings. Found that the rear axle was dislocated to right side. Propeller shaft now sideways perfectly aligns with gearbox rear end (without universal joint). Universal joint set to move free in all directions. Followed the filling st. set up instructions, used correct lubricant. After 250 miles I have a hard disbalance - would say universal joint.
Is it possible that the angle between rear axle and gearbox is too high? The leaf spings are refurbished- The distance between the rubber on to of the axle and the stop at the body is ~7,9 inch. Could this be too much? Can anybody give me some hints on how to align the rear axle correctly to the gearbox.
Currently I really don't know what to do.- Setting the car on fire could be an option
Many thanks in advance.

Did you install the trunnion bearings with the bevel edge towards the yoke?

Many thanks for your reply.
Sorry I am live in germany and my english is not perfect. I would think you mean the bearings in the U-joint. They have a campfer on one side. Yes I put them inside. Is it normal that most of the U joints you can get in the internet don't run free? When you move them they all have a position where the go heavy or stuck.I think I have about 4 NOS parts here now with this problem.

The ball housing is the part that covers the U-joint and fits between the rear of the transmission and front of the torque tube. There must be some resistance to movement to prevent lubricant leakage. If the resistance is too great then it may not maintain the proper alignment up and down between the rear end and transmission. That can quickly destroy the U-joint. If too loose the lubricant will drain away which can also destroy the U-joint. The proper resistance is critical. I set mine so I can move it by hand with difficulty. I also move it several times to wear in the seals and shims. Once it stabilizes then I put it all back together.

Many thanks for this idea. This might be the reason. In the descrition I had it said that the ball housing should be possible to be moved with two hands. Si I set it up like this. I found it ver tight. Your explenaition sound very logic to me. It seem that a too stiff ball housing results in a leverage to the U-joint.

Does anybody know the max. angles that are allowed to operate the U joint?

I calculated an angle of about 7,5° between the line of the end shaft of the gearbox and the propeller shaft wit the car being unloaded an standing on a flat surface.