VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1912-1928 27 LM: Rear inner axle seals, How to pull them out?

As the title suggests, I am wondering if anyone has a clever solution for pulling out the rear inner axle seal without destroying it? I want to locate modern neoprene seals to replace the original with. I have designed a puller for it but don't want to spend a whole day getting material and making it if someone has a tried and true method?

Also does any know of a replacement seal? I thought I had seen somebody post a replacement SKF number but my search only turned up the front seal.

Thanks!
Connor

Connor try Garry Wallace. I bought modern seals 15 tears ago from him.
He lists them for $42.00.

http://earlychevyparts.com/

Steve

Thanks for the reply, I see you are in Waterbury- I drove through a couple weeks ago when I went back home to Western MA, right up Rt 8.

What I am actually looking for is the number of a modern seal that can be pressed into the old seal housing instead of the felt. I am fairly certain that I have read about people doing this, but am having a hard time finding the source. I had to replace my computer and had not backed up my bookmarked pages.

On another note, I did manage to pull the seals out with a piece of threaded rod with a washer that was the same size as the ID of the housing with the edges cut off so it fit through the hole, and a piece of 1/4 barstock spanning the outter face. the passenger side was seriously stuck, it pulled a 3/4" bend into the bar stock. The drivers pulled out very smoothly. I'll link a pic of the tool for others benefit if they find this thread.

[img]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NakQeDUpTnXCT61yxVZGz2Xyf0yRT8SX/view?usp=sharing[/img]

If you take the seal to your local Motion Industries or other bearing supplier they should be able to measure it and then find a close lip seal replacement. If I remember it was necessary to dimple the original seal retainer to hold the replacement seal. Didn't find the seal number when I looked. I am sure it is in a file somewhere.

The seals I used in my '28 LP diff(the same size as an LM)were: Shaft size - 1.625",Housing diameter - 2.500",Width - 0.3125" Seal Type A1 Leather,which from memory were from an early series Landrover.The Australian P/No. for the seals I bought was either PR2703(Nitrile rubber),or C2703(Type A1 leather).

Thank you for that info, I found the timken cross reference, p/n 473010 at the local parts supplier for $13. I'll double check the specs on my axles and housings and pick them up.

Cheers!

Just wanted to update this thread and verify that the 473010 seal will work very well. I did not use them because you cannot use the original felt retainer with this seal. In order to maintain original appearances, I used a modified National 710141 seal, (41x61x8), which I did not realize had an extra sealing flap on the face, but it worked perfectly inside the felt retaining plate after trimming off the extra material. As a extra precaution I lined edges of the seal plate with a light coating of anaerobic sealer (RTV would be fine as well) and pressed the seal/retainer into the seal plate, and reset the dimples in the seal plate with a punch.

Connor

The other thing you can do is replace the axle bearings with sealed or shielded bearings vs. open bearings. When I redid the rear axle on my truck, I bought new felt seals from Gary Wallace and used shielded bearings on the axles and have not had a drop of rear axle lube make its way into the brake drums.