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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 35
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 35 |
I'm trying to rebuild a '54 235 and have come across a stuck heat riser valve. I've been pouring PB Blaster on it with no luck in freeing it up. Any ideas? Do I need to replace the shaft and or any bushings? The plate in the manifold looks like its welded on the shaft because I don't see any screws. Getting this thing apart could be a bear.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
To free it up do not try to turn it....but rather tap the ends of the shaft back and forth.Necessary to strike the weight to the front and shaft spring end to the rear so a lead or brass hammer is best.PB Blaster is good.If this dosen't help a torch can be used to heat it up.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,178
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,178 |
I had to drop the exhaust pipe on the 52 and spray Liquid Wrench up inside, then following the advice from, the previous post began to slowly and LIGHTLY tap on the ends, after I got a little movement I then continued with the spray, and made a tool similar to a strap wrench out of a stick and some nylon strap, I used this on the weight end and again very CAREFULLY used it to turn the weighted end back and forth, after 3 days of off and on work freed it up, installed a new spring and almost 10 years later still working fine.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
Glyn has it down. That is precisely how it is done. A little coaxing with the thermal wrench can shorten the process or destroy something depending on how much heat is used.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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