VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1937-1945 Original Fender Bolts or Screws

I have to cut out about 3 to 4 inches of steel from the body where the rear fenders bolt onto the wheel well my 1941 Special Deluxe Sedan. Unfortunately, this includes where all the caged nuts reside.

Since this will never be a show car, I was wondering if I can just replace this caged nut/bolt combo with sheet metal screws in the new steel. Anyone have experience in this?

If I do need to go caged nut/bolt combo, does anyone have experience with the combo pack from Chevs of the 40s (part #3651241B 41)? The picture on it is too small and out of focus. Can't tell if it includes the caged nuts.

I buy my caged nuts from McMaster-Carr. Not too difficult to spot weld them in place. Just takes a couple of dabs with the wire welder.

Purchased a lot from this company, good products:

https://www.restorationspecialties.com/

Brian

I purchased the fender bolt sets from Chevs of the 40s for my 1940 MD Sport
Sedan. I got the bolt sets for the body to frame, fenders and running boards. I don’t believe the caged nuts came with the bolt set. I ordered the caged nuts separately. The bolts in the set are the correct threads for caged nuts. I was very happy with all the bolt sets.

Curt

Try looking into rivnuts. Put the fender in place and mark the bolt holes. Depending on the size of the hardware that is normally used to hold the fender on, purchase the appropriate sized rivnut. Measure the outside diameter of the rivnut and drill the appropriate diameter hole. It requires a special tool to install, but it gives you a permanent threaded hole.

I had to replace metal in a couple places on my 38 in locations where there were holes for the caged fender nuts. We cut the section to be repaired out in a large single piece back to good solid metal and made a new matching patch that fit the location where the original rusted piece was.

We then dropped both pieces (original and new) off at a shop that does water jetting and they jetted the hole(s) for the fender nuts in the new metal in the exact location using a duplicating machine. After welding and grinding the patch in place, they look 100% original. Think it was $20ish per hole. They turned out beautifully.

Alternatively, the fender nuts need 3 openings - one large for the bolt and the two slots for the indexing tabs. You can drill 3 holes. Obviously the one large for the bolt, and then a couple smaller holes just big enough for the indexing tabs.