Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#445123 07/14/20 03:55 PM
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Has anyone replaced the roller at the end of the window glass regulator's arm where it fits into the cam channel on a 1934 Master? The cam channel attaches to the glass’ lower sash channel, and the roller fits in the cam’s slot. It appears the roller is made of leather. I do not know what other GM models used the leather as a roller and bearing surface. I have an idea on how I might replace the roller, but I would like to have anyone's tip on how it is done and if they used something other than leather.


Bill Masters
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Hi Bill.

I know nothing about your year's regulator but since know one has jumped in to help here is an old post on rebuilding regulators applicable to at least the years 37-54. Chevs of the 40's sells the roller and rivet with the caution that it might need modifying.

1941-48 Window Regulator - Rebuild

Good luck, Mike


Mike 41 Chevy
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I just ordered some rollers from the Filling Station for my 35 Standard.

Last edited by PeterV; 07/16/20 05:55 PM.
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Mike and Peter, thank you for your response. Mike, that is a very helpful post. Peter, which part number did you order from The Filling Station?


Bill Masters
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Bill, I just got them today. They don't fit. I bought a couple just to see if they could work. They are for a 37-40. They didn't have any for 35. You will probably be better off cutting out a couple of "rings" the size to need out of some leather and massaging it over the head of the rivet that is in the arm. The new rivets are similar but not exactly the same as 35. I'm going to check the hardware store and see what they have for rollers, draw or window, and see if I can adapt something to work. I might have to make some nylon bushings. I'm getting used to that.

Pete V

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Thank you, Peter. My plan is to drill through the rivet and tap it for a machine screw. Then I'll remove the rolled-over metal (flush with the regulator's arm) from the rivet and remove it from the arm. I'll use a large washer under the head of the screw when I reattach the rivet to the arm. I have some delrin that I'll use for the roller.


Bill Masters
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Bill,
I sent you an email with some pics of what I did to get the rollers to work. They work great with a few alterations.

Pete V

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Thank you, Peter.


Bill Masters
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That drill and tap idea sounds good. I might do that myself. I will still use the nylon bushings I have for the rollers. All I have to do is drill out the hole a little to fit the original rivet. It will be easier and a lot more stable than trying to fold over the rivet with a hammer. I will be able to tighten the screw so that the rivet will be tighter than I could get it rounding over the rivet. Great idea.

Thanks,
Pete V

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My plan is to drill and tap the rivet while it is still attached to the arm, and tap it while the arm is still mounted on the drill press.


Bill Masters
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Right on Bill. Did that exact thing on one of my previous jobs.


1937 Chevy 1/2 ton Pickup
1950 Chevy Styleline Deluxe Coupe
1953 Chevy 1/2 ton Panel Delivery

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hubcap than ride in a Ferd.
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That sounds like a great idea. I think I'll go with that. Thanks.

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Bill, what size drill bit are you using and what thread are you tapping. I will probably be getting to doing that next week. Thanks, Pete V

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Peter, I used a number 21 drill bit and tapped it for a 10-32 screw.


Bill Masters
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Thanks


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