VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 33 Chevy Pick Up - Newbie

Hello Everyone - Yes, I'm a newbie and I've got a first time project ahead of me. My son and I bought a 1933 Chevy Pickup and it needs a complete engine rebuild amongst other things. Of course, the engine was running fine before a starter problem and then it sat inside and out for years - according to previous owner. Hmmmmm

Needless to say we have our work cut out for us. We had to completely tear down the engine (cleaned, bagged and labeled parts), have a few cylinders sleeved and buy new pistons. This was done by a very reputable shop in SoCal. Now we're in the process of rebuilding it. I bought a few books but none of them talk about the 1933 specifically. Can someone recommend a book or other source for some guidance. Also, some parts are pretty bad off, like the thermostat housing. I've search the internet but can't seem to find anyone that sells this part. Also, the most of the wood in the cab needs to be replaced. I am pretty handy with wood so I think I can make most or all the pieces. BUT, can anyone recommend a place that sells the wood pieces? Or someone that sells templates to make the pieces? I found one place and it was about $5k with S/H etc.

Any help with resources for parts and rebuilding guidance would be great. Like when installing shims on the main bearing, how do you know if the shim(s) is the right thickness? Is it all by feel? I will start by putting the same ones back in but will that be right? What are the torque values for the bolts? All these questions are running around in my head. You all have been there, you know more than me what I need . . . I don't know what I don't know! Is this engine a 194? That has been conclusion.

Thanks for your guidance and help in advance, and I hope I didn't violate any rules.

Glen_T

Glen
Welcome to Chat.
At this stage I dont know of any forum rules you have even bent let alone violated. Let this thread continue as such but future posts are preferred in the specific groups further down the page
I can really only give you more general information but not 1933 specific, but there are others on this forum with more specific information.
Considering I am in Australia and my truck now has no wood I wont comment on wood parts suppliers but my guess there are some in the US that I dont know of.
Tony

As far as the engine is concerned. The repair manual for 1933 contains most of the information on engine rebuild. The language and terms are a little different than we are used to but not too difficult to understand if you have any experience. The engine is a 207 with longer stroke than the earlier 194. Also has cam bearing(s) that earlier engines do not. Otherwise they the same.

Use hardwood. Most use white ash but other species are okay as well. Fitting the wood to the sheet metal takes a bit more time but will result in a good serviceable result.

Don't have time right now to give more details.

The 1933 and 1934 blocks have a center replaceable cam bearing only.
In 1935 and 1936 the rear cam bearing was replaceable.

Hi Glen,
Too bad you got one with wood.
I made the same mistake 50 years ago and it's been a heartache I may not outlive.
There are a couple of wood people, but some may have died by now. I used KC Wood and you can find him in G&D I think.
I'm handy with wood, but I wouldn't even think of trying to copy the hard parts like doorposts.
And beware. The engine is child's play compared to getting the body back together after taking it apart to change wood.
There are a hundred degrees of freedom and holding things together for fastening is a monster.
If the kids are really interested and you are all patient, it will be a source of pride, but watch out.
It can sag and shift in ways you can't imagine!
Fortunately, I put mine back together with little wood screws, so I could take it apart when the doors an an inch gap at the top.
Beware of the paint industry. There are incredible new paints, but they cost a fortune and some are deadly poison.
If you aren't going for show quality, there are easier paints that will look OK.
You may want to farm out the paint, since you need a nice compressor and gun, as well as some sort of area you can ventilate. Get good respirators!
Body work is the worst thing I've ever done, a real character builder, but rewarding when (if) it comes together.
Remember, the painting is the last and easiest part. Metalwork and filling and sanding are an art that not everyone can get on a hobby schedule.
There's been a nice series on finishing in the G&D recently, so be sure to get that AND buy a couple of the many books available.

Why did you need sleeves? Did water get in?
Gene has been helping me with some cam bearing questions in the parts wanted forum, so read that.
Was your block boiled? Was the cam bearing taken out? Getting it back in in the right position is a bear.'
I can talk to you about measuring it. There's a fair chance it is usable. I just bought one on ebay.
Be sure to Magnaflux your head. Mine was cracked and would have been an unpleasant surprise if i had installed it.
I found a NIB replacement, but you may have to do some shopping if you need one.

Fitting bearings is time consuming, but not difficult. I'll send a picture of my setup for doing rods, if you send me your email.
You can measure clearance with Plastigage, but the instructions in the factory book are that a light tap with a small hammer should move the rod sideways.
For the crank, you just remove shims until you can't turn it and then take out until it turns with drag. When all three are in, before rods are installed, you should be able to turn it by hand, but not easily. Be sure to use plenty of assembly oil when fitting.
If at all possible, get some onsite help and advice from a local expert.
It's a simple old thing, but mistakes are easy to make and getting the oiling right and avoiding leaks take a lot of care and a little art.

You really should get the factory manual and, if you can find one, the parts book of 1935 is a big help, if you need to replace things or identify used stuff.
The books that cover many years are not good, since there are fewer relevant pictures and not everything is there.

I have some factory drawings showing dimensions of the bed parts that may be useful.

Please tell us more about what you've done and where you stand now. I'll be glad to pass on whatever I can. Mine is a '34, but similar.
It CAN be done and it's a good looking old truck, if you push through. Of course it's a great father/kid project, if the kids aren't phone addicted!

Wilson
Central NC

Welcome to the Chat Glen. The thing about your project is to remember it is a hobby. Re-building it back takes time and it is also like an Easter Egg Hunt. The parts are out there you just got to find them. There are also "hot rod" shops that re-do your type of body. I know you are not going to "hot rod" your truck but what I am saying is they also work on wood bodies... so you might get one who would do the wood for you as well as the steel, too. Or you might just want the wood done... Check out Abe's Books on the net. They sell used good condition books real cheap. I bought a book called "Chevrolet Six Car and Truck" by Victor W. Page 1931 to 1937 He started making books back in '33 and as the years went by added to the book til 1937. So if you by one a couple years after your model it will have everything you need. Check with them to see what they have for you. Within the club you will find "part collectors". They have NOS (new old stock) parts and official replacement parts, too. It is the adventure of finding and visiting with them as you go along. Please click on the flashing flag to see my message to you. Again welcome to the chat.

Welcome to the ownership of a Chevy truck. I own several and they are becoming much more popular. They also draw attention.

Sorry if it might upset anyone but I disagree with Wilson. The wood can be a challenge but when it is done, the level of satisfaction and pride in doing a difficult job far out weighs the extra time, tools, sweat and skills required.

Truck cabs are much easier than a 4-door Sedan for instance. Most of the wood parts are relatively straight forward without compound cuts and shapes. So basic wood working tools and skills can do the job.

I have re wooded several Chevrolet bodies and in the process not only acquired several tools but learned to use them. Also to make patterns from less expensive materials (2 x 4s, particle board, cardboard, etc). They are definitely easier to shape and reshape. You can glue on pieces to "repair" oopses and booboo's. Use grinders, sanders, and other shaping tools to get the parts close.

If you don't have all the tools don't fret too much. Often neighbors, friends not only have them but will help in making the parts required.
Don't be afraid of asking for help.

If you don't have patterns or know what the original wood pieces looked like look at the sheet metal parts. Often there is a difference in the look of the surface where the wood was located. Look up VCCA members who might have a similar truck. In your case the '31-'33 cabs are basically the same so any of them can be used for patterns for your cab. Photos with dimensions or actually measuring a cab can be very beneficial.

"Sorry if it might upset anyone but I disagree with Wilson. The wood can be a challenge but when it is done, the level of satisfaction and pride in doing a difficult job far out weighs the extra time, tools, sweat and skills required."

You are so right on that Chipper. I sent him a PM saying the same thing, not just about the wood but about the whole restoration. It's great to see your "Roll up your sleeves and get 'er done" response to the "That can't be done, it's too difficult" commentary that is so prevalent here.

Ray W

Plastguage is adequate for the bearing adjustments but not as easy or as accurate as the "tinfoil go/no go" method.

Get a roll of heavy-duty Reynolds wrap- if you mic it, it's about .001".
take off the bearing cap and cut a double thickness piece of foil an inch long and as wide as the cap.
a double thickness piece is needed to give a final clearance of .001" on both sides of the crank.
put it inside the cap and tighten down the cap.
if the engine turns over, you have MORE than .001" clearance which is not good.
take shims out until the engine won't turn- now you have .001" clearance.
remove the foil and replace the cap.


I adjusted bearings on our '35 Standard this way and have done several Model A Fords with it also.

"Get a roll of heavy-duty Reynolds wrap- if you mic it, it's about .001"."

Good morning Chris,

We just happen to have that Reynolds product here and checking its thickness with an accurately zeroed Starrett 0-1" micrometer with a ratcheting thimble for consistent readings confirms your 0.001" measurement. It never crossed my mind that a common, inexpensive kitchen product is so accurately manufactured! But I wonder if you could explain a little more about your aluminum foil clearance setting method.

"take off the bearing cap and cut a double thickness piece of foil an inch long and as wide as the cap.
a double thickness piece is needed to give a final clearance of .001" on both sides of the crank.
put it inside the cap and tighten down the cap.
if the engine turns over, you have MORE than .001" clearance which is not good."

The above part I understand, although it does not yield an actual clearance to be adjusted.

"take shims out until the engine won't turn- now you have .001" clearance.
remove the foil and replace the cap."

The above is the part I don't understand. It seems to me that if the crankshaft won't turn that is qualitative but not quantitative information since it is now at zero clearance OR an interference fit at that bearing. In a hypothetical example if it is at a 0.001" INTERFERENCE fit with the aluminum foil in place and the rod or main bearing cap torqued and the aluminum foil is then removed the clearance would be 0.001" total (0.0005" gap around circumference of the journal) wouldn't it? Maybe I'm missing something. Can you please explain?

I'm also wondering if after setting bearing clearances by the aluminum foil method anyone has verified that the desired clearance has actually been obtained by either of the two methods described in this article that yield an actual clearance number (micrometer/dial bore gauge & plastigauge):

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-measure-bottom-end-clearance/

I realize that this is academic in low compression, low RPM engines but it is interesting nevertheless.

Thanks Chris.

Ray W

by using a double layer of foil, you now have a .002" interference fit when the engine won't turn which is equivalent to .001" around the circumference after the foil comes out.......

the only confirmation I have that this works is several engines I used the method on that have performed as they should, with no bearing noises or oil leaks.....

Thanks so much for that follow up information Chris. I guess that the important thing is that method works for people who use it. I'd still be curious to know what actual measured clearance or range of clearances that method yields using either the micrometer/dial bore gauge or plastigauge methods.

Science and engineering are always moving forward. It is tempting to apply new knowledge to old mechanisms, like hiding a James Peterson voltage regulator inside an 1930s era Delco generator to make the ancient generator much more effective without changing it appearance:

https://www.ply33.com/Repair/voltreg

Ray W

I like this idea.

I have just completed a 34’ high cab re-wooding for a VCCA member and you can see my thread on the AACA restoration forums. I built virtually all the cab wood but bought the door wood at $750 per door from KC Wood and they fit virtually perfectly.. Set up, time making the pieces, plus materials will cost that easily and my hourly rate is low compared to many. The cab is now solid like it should be as the previous restorer used soft construction type lumber that just wouldn’t support the structure. Doors sagged and dragged on the rockers plus the doors could easily be pushed open. The PR installed seatbelts so people wouldn’t accidentally fall out I think. I always use ash for it’s workability as it’s as strong as oak but is easier on your blades and bits. The grain is also less porous and less susceptible to humidity changes than oak. Always drill pilot holes and bar soap your screws before inserting them. I’ve found one of my best purchases has been a small base Rigid brand trim router. A bandsaw is also indispensable for this work. I have the old wood from this truck and while I don’t think it would fit, it would give you a very good idea on how the pieces are made and how the joinery is done. Some of the pieces are closer to being correct than others but making wood is not rocket science though a good general understanding of car wood framing goes a long way to helping you.

Piease check your PM.
Wilson

OK, I feel like jumping back in here. I never said for him not to do it, but rather to give him a heads up about what he was into.
I was young, busy (grad student, parent, had job) and didn't have a lot of money to throw at it.
Not to mention that it has a '29 car engine that some farmer put in when the original blew or wore out. Also has a 4 speed bigger truck tranny.
SO, some of the motor mount/pedal/brake switch stuff is butchered. Imagine my embarrassment when the lady at Obsolete Chevy Parts told me I didn't have the engine i thought I had!
I'm back at it now, with considerable determination and really appreciating the many hints given in response to my recent questions.
I enjoy a challenge as much as anyone, but walked into this one with stars in my eyes and my head somewhere dark!
The cab alignment is a real puzzle and it was heartbreaking when my doors were more than an inch from fitting at the top rear!
If Glenn takes this on I'll do as much as I can to help and cheer for him all the way.
That doesn't change my wish for him to know what he's bitten off so he can keep his and the kids' expectation in line.
He's on here, which puts him WAY ahead of where I started.
SO Glenn, what's happened so far?
Wilson

Glen, nice to meet you. I am starting my journey with 33 truck. Many of the same things that you are looking at. I am going to do the wood myself but by no means am a wood worker but tought it would be fun. Currently I’m trying to get the engine running after sitting for 50 years.
Would love to share pics and ideas. My email is ray at Rayz.us

Also thanks all the rest for your comments they all help, when I look at how much my truck needs it’s temping to dump it off somewhere and write a check. ;0

I was going to put up pics but don’t seem able.