Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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I have a stock 216 in my 1948 Fleetmaster. I'm interested in cutting down on the amount of oil being flung about the engine bay so it looks like a change of the valve cover gasket and the side panel gasket are in my near future.

1. Not having done this with this particular engine, are there any potential obstacles or is this pretty much straight forward?

2. What is the current thinking on sealants for the gasket? Permatex 2 or leave em nekkid? Any other products?

3. Any tips on holding the side gasket in place while positioning the cover?

Thank you kindly.


Steve A.

'46 Chevy 3600 3/4 ton Pickup
'48 Chevy Fleetmaster Sport Coupe with Country Club kit
'63 Chevy Monza Spyder convertible
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Originally Posted by Eclector
I have a stock 216 in my 1948 Fleetmaster. I'm interested in cutting down on the amount of oil being flung about the engine bay so it looks like a change of the valve cover gasket and the side panel gasket are in my near future.



3. Any tips on holding the side gasket in place while positioning the cover?

Thank you kindly.

I have raided my wife's sewing basket and used some thread to tie the gasket to the cover at several points. Get your screws started and b/4 the final tighten simple cut the thread and pull it out. I have also use an adhesive on the cover, lay the gasket on and when the sealer has pretty much set up put the cover with gasket on.

Dick

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In the assembly of any Chevrolet, the damper should be checked for a grouve. If one is present it should be filled and then a "Speedy Sleeve" installed. You will thank yourself for the effort down the line.

devil Agrin


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Cut the heads off of a few bolts and put a screw drive slot in them. Hang the gasket on the screws and loosely install the originally bolts. Pull out your slotted screws as you see everything is aligning.

Hopefully others will comment on the use or non use of sealers and what surfaces work best (both sides of the gasket, one side)? Both gaskets are critical for a leakfree engine as is the oil pan gasket.

I have also used super glue in small amounts for alignment and longer bolts that are removed when things are aligned.

Make sure all surfaces are exceptionally clean including the bolts and bolt holes. I use a small amount of paint thinner on a paper towel or rag.

Good luck, Mike


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In theory with cork gaskets no sealant is needed but I often use Permatex #2 as a insurance measure.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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I agree with Tony. This is a case where theory does not translate to reality.

Companies like FelPro say to install cork gaskets “clean and dry”. My experience on these Chevy engines does not support that theory. I have better results when I use either the Permatex like Tony or a thin layer of silicone gasket maker as a sealant on both faces of the gasket. Plus it is easier to remove the old gasket when you use the silicone.

I take the extra time to remove the distributor and crankcase vent when I am replacing the side cover gasket. That allows you to move the side cover straight towards the side of the engine on the “guide pins”. I silicone the spark plug hole gaskets to the side cover and let that sit overnight with weight on it to make sure they do not move during installation.

For the valve cover you need to spend time checking that the edges where the gasket sits are straight and perpendicular to the side of the cover. They need to be very flat to push the gasket tightly against the head. Most of them have been overtightened at some time to try and stop oil leaks. That bends those flanges upwards. Remember to check the bosses where the studs come through the valve cover. Those will get bent down when overtightened.


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A lot of sheet metal covers have been overtightened which causes high spots at the bolt holes,I take the cover and slide it back and forth on the flat of a table saw this will show the high spots and then you can tap them down.

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I used the thread method and it worked well for me, but did not use any sealant on my prior 38 but I will use sealant on my current 38 as well as straighten the mating surface the best i can. I am changing the valve, pushrod and oil pan gaskets as well as paint whatever I can during the process. I need to change motor mounts so I will remove the radiator and grille giving me better access to the front of the engine. My old 38 Master Deluxe Town sedan seemed to have more room between the engine and the radiator then my 38 Master Sport four door but could be my imagination.

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One of the companies makes a thicker black coloured side cover gasket. I like it much better than cork.


My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
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Thickness may not be the issue in getting a good seal. Flexibility just might be more important in sealing an irregular surface.


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It had more room because the Master Deluxe has a smaller fan than a Master.


Gene Schneider

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