I was trying to start the engine in my 1946 Truck after rebuild (many years ago, but never have run since) It starts to run 3-4 seconds and then dies as soon as I let off the key. Engine is a 1959 235. It is getting gas, but seems to stop right away, so I thought it might be a problem with the carburetor, It does not see to continue to get enough gas to continue running, so I took it apart and found that there is a missing "Weight - for Pump discharge ball" In the Instruction sheet from the carburetor it shows #35 and #34, the carburetor has the ball in it but not #35 the weight.
This doesn't seem to be the answer to why the engine wont continue to run, but I want to solve this while I have the carburetor off.
Has it been converted to 12 volts? If it has does it have an ignition resistor? Some systems with a 6 volt coil but 12 volt batteries would start on 12 volts but when the start key was released change to the resistor to run on 6 volts. If the resistor was burned out they would die because there was no electricity to the coil. I wouldn't think this was the case with a 46 unless a lot of customizing has taken place. Good luck!
Not the answer to your starting problem, but the 3211s had NEITHER THE BALL OR THE WEIGHT! The pump discharge valve in the 3211s was a pointed weight that replaced the ball and square weight used in earlier carbs.
I like Ed's suggestion. It is a '59 235 so I bet it was converted to 12 volts.
To test his idea simply run a jumper wire from the battery + post to the side to the post on the coil opposite the wire to the distributor. Start the truck with the key. If it runs after you release the key to the run position check the resistor and wiring to it.
Mark - the earlier YF's did use the ball and weight, but folks kept losing the weight. Carter then made the modification. The earlier instruction set mentions the ball and weight.
I was able to start it and ran for 3-4 minutes, was idling fast so I shut it off to check out, but will not fire since. It is like there is no spark, just cranks.
I am rechecking everything in ignition circuit, coil, points, plugs and wires, I have 12.5 volts to the resistor with key on. Also checking back through carb settings Not sure what else to check
What voltage do you have at the resistor when you are cranking the engine? I assume that your conversion includes an ignition switch with a start position. If so, that switch might have 2 sets of contacts for the ignition circuit. One set is engaged in the start position and sends 12 volts to the coil. The other set is engaged in the run position and sends 12 volts to the input side of the resistor. That design sends 12 volts to the coil for more spark to start the engine. Then the voltage is reduced in the run position so the points do not burn as quickly.
I agree that you got it started once but maybe the "start" ignition contacts failed or thew wire for that circuit came loose.
What voltage do you have at the resistor terminal on the coil side of the resistor? Check that with one of the meter leads connected to ground when the points are open. It should be about 6 to 7 volts if the resistor is working correctly.
That voltage should drop to almost 0 when the points close. If it does not drop then there is no current flowing through the coil and points.
I have 13.35 volts going into the resistor with key on position or when cranking on the side away from the coil.
When cranking the coil side of the resistor drops to nearly 0. All the time.
i am not sure how to test the voltage at the points. Open or closed. I did get a spark to jump the points when the key was on and I manually opened the points.
Is is possible that the key ignition is bad, since the voltage drops to 0 when cranking?
The 0 reading could also be caused by the points not opening and constant connection to ground. Place a piece of thin cardboard between the points, turn the key on and read the voltage on points side of the coil, you should get the same as on the key side if not look for a short between the coil and the moving point. The condensor may have shorted internally or a insulating washer may have slipped out of place during assembly. Tony
I put cardboard between the points, I have the same voltage on the points side of the distributor as I do on the key side.
I am wondering... My wiring harness (YnZ Yesterdays) gave me a wire to go " from Ignition switch to coil). This wire was added for those who do not have the original electro-lock/armored cable key switch. I have run this wire per instructions to the resistor then to coil. This leaves me with the wire from the "R" terminal not connected to anything. When I did have this wire from R term connected I get 11.54 volts when cranking, but 0 volts when key is on position.
Also, when I was trying to get the wiring correct I had a short and saw some smoke under the dash. This happened for 2-3 seconds (wiring was obviously wrong) I connected the ground to the battery and immediately disconnected. I have checked the ammeter and I get the same voltage in and out with the key on. I do not know what else this may have damaged. ???
If you got the same voltage on both sides with the cardboard and 0 without check that the points are opening and closing correctly and have the correct gap when they are open. The spark normally happens when the points open but wont happen if they dont close (make contact). Tony
