What`s behind the fuel outlet in a 1932 fuel tank? I don`t get fuel to the fuelpump glass bowl, I then disconnected fuel line at the tank, but I don`t get any fuel out, and the tank is about ½ full, measured with a ruler. If I blow air into the outlet I can hear and see bubbles. If I put a wire in through the outlet, it feels like there might be a tube inside.
Is there a tube or a mesh inside the tank, that can be blocked and prevent the fuel from comming out?
Got the tank out, and now I know for sure the uptake is free, but even when tank is filled up just over outlet, I still don`t get any fuel out, until I tilt it up high, but then it flow nicely.
Is it the vacuum from the pump, that start the flow of fuel, so I should focus on the pump, that I was actually working on, when I realized I didn`t get fuel from the tank?
fuel will not flow freely from the tank till the fuel level is above the outlet when the tank is installed or removed. gravity and physics rule that one.
you are correct VACUUM from the fuel pump pulls fuel through up the feed uptake through the line to the fuel pump then onto the carb. just went through this issue a few months back. here is a link to by fuel fun: 1929 Chevrolet Test Fire ONE...
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Our 36 would run well when completely filled up. After drawing down even just a little it would start cutting out and run very poorly. I put a piece of clear refridgerator tube ahead of the pump. It showed bubbles. Traced it back to the tank. Turns out the pickup tube in the tank rusted through enough to draw air and gas. I bought a new tank from the Filling Station. The filler tube isn't quite right but otherwise it runs well now. Art
While tank was out I tested fuel outlet with a 50 ml syringe, flow was ok even when tank is only halffull, so installed tank. Then tested step by step with the syringe, first tank outlet, then mounted fuel line, tested at fuel pump inlet, mounted fuel pump without diaphragm, tested I could fill filter glass bowl with fuel using the syringe vacuum, all was ok. I rotated cam, so it had the high point towards pump, mounted the fuelpump without toppart, so I could see diaphragm movement, looked fine. Assembled pump, tried to pump the fuel by hand, no function. Found out I was missing the wafer under the air bowl, it was there from the beginning, so I have lost it during my tests. Put a new wafer in, and now I could pump fuel by hand. Installed everything, fired the engine up, and went for a 10 mile testdrive without problems.
Yes it`s running, but never found the problem that started it all. At high RPM it intermittendly act like it was running out of fuel, and got worse for each trip I made. Cleaned the carburator twice, then started to look at the fuel pump, and ended at the tank, which lead to this thread.
But now I will just drive a lot, and see if problem is solved without me knowing what the exact problem/cure was.
could have been something simple, like air getting in. maybe line completely connected (loose fitting), diaphragm not seated correctly, trash or contamination in the fuel pump. plus others i am sure i missed.
maybe it just wanted some attention !!
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Intermittent fuel supply problems are mostly caused by valves in the fuel pump sticking or crud in the fuel tank that occasionally plugs the pickup tube. Plugged fuel filters, leaking pump diaphragms, leaking settling bowl gaskets can also be factors, as can the needle/seat sticking in carburetors.
Last year when I bought the 32, and it had been mostly sitting for years, I had a similar problem, then it was the diaphrams, which also looked very warped. The 1 year old diaphram looks ok, but I replaced it anyway.
Both diaphrams were NORS, and I know I have to buy a modern alcohol resistant neoprene diaphram, so it`s on my to do list.
i would buy the fuel pump rebuild kit and do that, it is a simple rebuild and that way you know it is good to go. New wafers(valves) & springs, new ethanol diaphragm, gaskets (fuel bowl & fuel pump to block), main springs, filter screen, etc... it is cheap insurance on the fuel pump.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell