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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8 |
The door on my 35 Standard Coach is sagging in the rear. The gap in the front from the top hinge to the rocker panel is great and the opposite side looks good. Across the top it is narrower on the hinge side and widens to the rear. It looks like it needs to be lifted about 1/4-3/8 of an inch. The hinges are tight and not worn. The door doesn't close all the way. It binds on something about 2 inches from being closed completely. I can see the pillar that holds the hinges twisting a bit. I have heard that adding or subtracting shims on the body mounts can help correct things like this. How do I know where to add shims? Right now I have all new mounts that are all the same thickness. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks everyone.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,739 Likes: 2
ChatMaster - 1,500
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ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,739 Likes: 2 |
I can see the pillar that holds the hinges twisting a bit.. If you see the hinge pillar twisting then that may be the start of your problem. It shouldn't. You are going to have to find out why it is moving and correct it first before looking at shimming the body.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8 |
The hinge seems to be closed all the way before the door is actually closed. With the door closed as far as it will go before the pillar starts to twist there is still a space between the door and the jamb. The same gap that the other door has when it is closed so it isn't that the door is against the jamb causing it to twist. Is there any adjustment if I loosen the screws on either the door side of the hinge or the jamb side of the hinge?
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
Most "A" pillers or front door hinge posts have a bevel from square. That positions the hinges to line up so the latch side of the door is a is a little wider from body center line than the hinges. If that bevel it too large then the hinge will close before the door is shut. Same result if the door post has rotated. If a straight edge is placed in the door opening the correct angle can be determined.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 161
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 161 |
I have a 36 Master and on the hings side of the door is a adjusting screw that run diagonally to the bottom corner. By turning that screw ( which is about 3' long) it picks up the rear of the door. You can adjust it till the gaps even out if your lucky and it help balance out the door. No need to remove the interior panel. If that is available on your car I would give that a shot first.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8 |
Found that one of the screws for the hinge was at an angle and wasn't in all the way. The rounded head was hitting the post before the door was completely closed and causing it to flex a bit. Filed the head flat and now it is flush with the door and not hitting the post any more. There was also a screw missing from the bottom of the post which held the bottom tight to the frame of the body. I put in a new screw and it drew the post in tight about 1/4 inch making plenty of room for the door to close without hitting and twisting the post.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8 |
I have that adjusting bar and did tighten it up and it helped a lot. I also put thinner body mounts under the door and at the B pillar. This lowered the body a touch and now the door shuts great and all the gaps are straight and even.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8 |
Thanks everyone for your help. Both doors shut without problems and very easily. On to fixing the floor.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,739 Likes: 2
ChatMaster - 1,500
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ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,739 Likes: 2 |
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8 |
A combination of all of the above, the screwhead not being flush and hitting the A pillar, adjusting the angled threaded bar in the door to pull it up and in, the thinner body mounts to lower the body closer to the frame at the door. They all played a factor in setting the gaps and aligning the door.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689 Likes: 21
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,689 Likes: 21 |
Peter, Glad you found the trouble causing the doors to sag. In the future when you first realize that the doors are just starting to sag a little, get out your stethoscope. Now get right down there at the bottom edge of the door where there is wood close by the hinges and sometimes a pocket that holds a bit of moisture. Then put on your stethoscope. Place the two small ends in your ear holes and the other big end hold as close to wood as you possibly can. Listen carefully. Pay no attention to anyone who may ask what in the world you're doing. ignore them and go on with your intense listening. In a few minutes you may detect some wee gnawing by one of those rascally and uppity termites. If the gnawing lets up, one of them will likely pause to pleadingly ask if you have any Grey Poupon. At that you will know you have a problem. Offer them French's instead and they will readily leave in search of a 37/38. Will too!  You're welcome, Best, Charlie 
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8
Backyard Mechanic
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OP
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8 |
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