VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 '29 Brake Adjer tool

Hello I need the tool to adjust the brakes on my 1929. The tool I need is the one FS has #AF-504 for a '29 brake adjustment.I would like to think one of my fellows VCCA members and/or a friend would have one that they would part with at a fair price. If not, would any of the club members who do have one could send me a good detailed drawing of the tool that I can machine/duplicate one from.
Again-- All Help Is Greatly Appreciated
David(POPS) H.{VCCA#55549}

Hello David, I have a drawing of one of the brake setting tools. The originals were metal but I think you can make one out of laminated plywood. The few times a person may use it = it will probably not wear enough to be a problem. Personally I have not found the need to actually make one from the drawing yet as I got the brakes adjusted and in good working order mainly by using the service manual and common sense. The main thing to remember is that the levers should be perpendicular to the pull WHEN APPLIED, not when resting. ALL linkages must be loose enough to be moved easily by hand. When I got my coupe the brakes did not work well and needed a lot of work. Art

I did this as well, cost to have one made was bout the same as buying one.
you could make one out of a piece of wood with a dowel, as the pin is a guide for setting the proportioner location.

I agree with BeachBum. If you just set it up so that the arms are perpendicular to the rods when the brakes are applied, you'll be fine. I've done a bunch of these and have never had the tool.

All the Best, Chip

I also have adjusted numerous mechanical brake systems on Chevys. The maximum braking force is when the arms are perpendicular (90 deg.) to the rods. Doesn't take a gauge to set that. Use a board or the "Boss" to set the pedal to the desired position, adjust the link to the center shaft so the arms are just approaching a vertical position and then adjust the brakes at each wheel to have them very difficult to turn and you are done. Front to back and side to side will be equalized. With high friction linings your brakes will "stop" up to the limit of the rubber contact on the road.

Thanks for the information. The brakes stop fine, it is just when you stand on the brakes hard the left front locks up.I will start with chipper,s and others advice about the rod adjustment and the 90 deg.setup
David

Once a year I roll around underneath and put a few drops of oil on EACH pivot, rod pin, and shaft before touring season to keep everything nimble,working, and not wearing itself out. Easier to do this than to replace components later. I also do the door hinges, latches, and stops. Last year of the sliding door stops on cars. For the time the 29 is a very well built car, and if the wood had survived you would see a lot more of them out there.

A note on brake pedal height. Being an external band don't adjust the pedal right to the top. As the drum expands due to heat it will apply the rear bands more and more. During a prolonged downhill run even in a lower gear with switchbacks it may engage to the point it may stop the car.

Would appreciate if anyone have a pic of the brake adjusting tool, thanks

here are picts of the one i bought
after fiddling around, i broke down and bought one, once i get comfortable with the braking system and how it all work, i will learn more about setting them without a tool, consider it my training wheel/backup plan :)

It's nothing like what I expected so thanks for your help, much appreciated.

lol yeah but looks like the pictures and works