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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,411 Likes: 7
ChatMaster - 1,000
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ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,411 Likes: 7 |
Guys: I need to replace the rear main seal on Old Blue (37 1/2 ton, 216 cu in., 4 speed). I plan to switch the tranny to a 3 speed in the coming months, but in the mean time I'd like to address this leak problem. This will be a learning experience for me. I've heard there is something called a "sneaky pete" tool that can be used to fish out the worn seal and replace it with a new one. Seems like that would be a "simple" way to go, but as I've learned the hard way on other tasks I've done on Old Blue the word "simple" is usually a warning. I'm learning as I go on this project so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, 37Blue 
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
Your 1937 engine does not have a rear main seal.Would need to trade it in on a 1940 or newer to have a seal.
When everything is "proper" your rear main should not leak.May leave a drop after a long run but thats about all.
Drop the rear main bearing cap and check to see that the oil return passage in the cap is clean and that the check ball is free.Adjust by removing shims to about .001" clearance....Thats about all you can do.Also necessary to have a clean road draft tube to relieve crankcase pressure.
A "non-approved" trick is to cut a shallow grove in the lower insert, off to one side, from the center grove forward.This relieves some of the oil pressure and returns some excess oil forward to the pan.This can be done easily by placing two hack saw blades together and sawing thru the babbit (about .015")Stay to one side of center as the load is in the center.After all other attempts I did this to my '39 a few years ago, have driven several thousand miles at high speed since, and no leaking.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,411 Likes: 7
ChatMaster - 1,000
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OP
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,411 Likes: 7 |
Chevgene:
Thanks for the info. The leaking only occurs after a long run but recently seems to have gotten worse. I was told by others that noticed the leak recently that it was the rear main seal. I assumed they knew this model had one. I'll check the into the leak as you suggested.
Thanks, 37Blue
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 118
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 118 |
I had a very bad oil leak at the rear of my '39 engine, especially right after I turned the motor off. A steady stream of oil would pore out from the clutch cover plate hole. I finally worked up the courage and took off the oil pan and then the rear main cap, as Gene suggested. The check ball was missing along with the little pin that keeps it from falling out. I replaced the check ball with a ball bearing, and made a pin. That completely stopped the leak. I was so proud of myself I didn't know what to do...My first "major project." Good luck,and
Best wishes,
Chuck
garbo
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
and we are proud of your accomplishment also. 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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