Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



Visit the new site at vcca.org

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Rate Thread
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 9
BigT Offline OP
Grease Monkey
OP Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 9
The hard rubber strip at the top of the door but at the bottom of the driver & passenger windows is deteriorating on my 1946 1/2 ton truck. If you were the passenger and you hung your arm out of the window while riding, your arm would rest across this item. It is on the outside of the door glass when door glass is rolled up. Does anyone know what this item is called? It glides along the outside of the door glass when rolled up or down. Is it called a 'scraper'? I believe it acts as a 'seal' to reduce water that runs down the drivers/passengers glass from going down inside the door. Once I do determine what it is called where might I purchase new ones for both the driver and passenger doors? Also, how is it installed? I found two peel and stick items that might be what I am looking for on the Filling Station website. Part numbers:

70-2816 DENSE PEEL-N-STICK BELTLINE SEAL - 5FT 1/2" Tall x 23/32" Wide
https://www.fillingstation.com/detail/16722/Chevrolet_DENSE_PEELNSTICK_BELTLINE_SEAL_5FT.html

or

70-2820 - DENSE PEEL-N-STICK BELTLINE SEAL - 5FT 5/16" Tall x 3/4" Wide
https://www.fillingstation.com/detail/16725/Chevrolet_DENSE_PEELNSTICK_BELTLINE_SEAL_5FT.html


Could this be what I need to buy?

Thanks and any help is greatly appreciated.

Filling Station - Chevrolet & GMC Reproduction Parts


Filling Station


Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 7
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 7
I recently completed restoration of a ”˜46 Chevy 1/2 ton. The side scraper window seal replacement was a memorable challenging task for the frame- up restoration. Along the way I learned there is a significant difference in replacement parts quality, especially the rubber products. Steele Rubber consistently had superior products.

The task it self required the removal of the inner door skin. The channel that houses the rubber seal must be opened, carefully to remove the old seal. This is a labor intensive task by itself. The channel then needs to be thoroughly cleaned. The replacements seal needs to be slipped into the channel, actually more difficult than it sounds, using a liberal amount of soapy water, plastic prying tools of various shapes and lots of patience. Then, the channel needs to be re-crimped to hold the seal in place. I used a thin wide blade screwdriver and sheet metal pliers that have flat jaws and a straight and flat nose about 0.5”” wide to open the channel and later to re-crimp. The plastic prying tools are/were a Harbor Freight kit. The pliers might have come from there as well, I can’t recall with certainty.

The product referenced in your message I am certain, from my experience, will not work. Did not try them, but from the photos they seem certain not to fit in the channel.

Good luck!

Last edited by 37Blue; 04/28/20 08:27 PM. Reason: Added comment
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 9
BigT Offline OP
Grease Monkey
OP Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 9
Thank you, much appreciated. Sounds like a fun project all around. crazy

Did you remove the side glass to perform this job or was yours already out due to the restoration? I believe I found the parts here. Can you please tell me if this is what you used?

https://www.steelerubber.com/sash-channel-weatherstrip-60-0566-58

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 7
ChatMaster - 1,000
Offline
ChatMaster - 1,000
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 7
Yes, that was the product used. 12/1/2022 EDIT !!! I was incorrect, my apologies! I used the window scrappers sold by Jim Carters. I attempted to use the Steele product but discovered, frustratingly, they were too wide. These would bind and make the roller mechanism much too hard to work correctly.

It might be worthwhile to replace the whisker tracks on the door glass inside edge too.

Yes, the glass was removed. In so doing the inside cross member will need removed and all related parts. It will be a good time to check the door latch springs, as well window crank springs then clean and lubricate all the moving pieces and the regulator track.

((Edit note added 11/30/2022: Inspect the rollers, the about dime sized discs, on the window regulator to make sure these freely spin. These might need soaking in solvent to clean/ remove dust and grime. I used a lithium grease lubricant afterward. These also might need dressing with a file to remove any flat spots.))

It might be a good idea to take lots of photos when disassembling the parts to make the reverse journey less challenging.

Last edited by 37Blue; 12/01/22 11:40 AM.
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 9
BigT Offline OP
Grease Monkey
OP Offline
Grease Monkey
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 9
Thank you so much! Great advice and insight.


Link Copied to Clipboard
 

Notice: Any comments posted herein do not necessarily reflect the official position of the VCCA.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5