Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#440783 04/08/20 07:28 AM
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Dan_D Offline OP
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Finishing a engine rebuild on my ”˜48 Fleetline, with a ”˜52 235 motor. Is there a nylon washer that goes under the distributer and on top of the oil pump? I have this nylon washer that came with the gasket kit and this is the only place I see it could go, also looks like it was running metal to metal there and that don’t seem right.
And is there a gasket under the flange of the distributer, if I set it in it doesn’t seat all the way down like there needs to be a spacer or gasket there?
Thanks in advance for any help,
Dan


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I am not sure about the 235 engines but doubt there was any washer below the distributor. My guess is the nylon washer is a replacement sump plug washer, often these are supplied in a full kit.
Tony


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There is no washer under the distributor on a 235 engine.
I would guess the nylon washer is for the oil drain plug.
The distributor on the engine has a loose fit into the block and if it does not go all the way down the tang on the dist. shaft is not engaging with the oil pump.

Last edited by Chev Nut; 04/08/20 10:03 AM.

Gene Schneider
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Thanks for the replies, that’s what I needed. New problem, put oil in her and primed, I wanted to see I what kind of flow it had to the head, only when I’m running the pump it is leaking oil out the front center of the oil pan.
Why is this only under pressure?


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Because of the oil is under pressure - forcing out the oil. When not under pressure it is just sitting in the oii pan below that level.


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I’ll just have to pull the pan and see what I did wrong? Just don’t understand why it’s coming out freely when I run the pump?


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Aren't there one (or 2) bolts that secure the timing chain cover from the inside of the oil pan at the front of the pan? I have seen some rebuilds and these bolts were
overlooked, causing a mysterious oil leak from the front of the motor. Bobalouie

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Thanks Bobaloie, I remember putting those in as there is a locking plate behind them. I’m going to take a couple of days off then pull the pan and see what the heck I did wrong?


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Do those bolts require some type of sealant on the threads to prevent leaks?

We have the same problem with oil leaks past the bolts that hold the flywheel on the crankshaft in Miata's if a sealant like Loctite is not used.


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I don’t think they do? It seems like it has to do with the pressure lubrication system as it is forced out when I use a drill motor to run the oil pump, not just a small leak either, it flowed a puddle about 3” in diameter in a mater of a minute or two.


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I wonder if the seal is missing? Without it in place there is an uncovered gap between the crankshaft and front timing cover. Earlier engines have a slinger and no seal they don't leak that much. I am also thinking that the nozzle that feeds oil to the camshaft gear it probably missing or drilled out allowing a lot more oil than can be drained out the passage in the front main bearing cap. Or the passage in the cap is partially plugged. The final possibility is the gap between the front crankshaft bearing and the shaft it way too big allowing too much oil to gush out.


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On a 216/235 engine the timing gear cover bolts to the front engine mount plate. The lower two cover bols are installed from the back of the plate (oil pan must be removed).The timing cover seal is pressed into the front cover.. Any oil going to the gears returns through two holes on the bottom.
For the oil to pour out with the oil pump driven with engine not running will not pour oil out of the cover. Sounds like the cork on the front of the oil pan is out of place or has a piece missing. When the oil pan in installed the side corks are installed first and then the end corks. If this is not done properly there wil be massive oil leaks where the side gaskets and end corks join.


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Thanks a Gene, My gasket set came with both rubber and cork gaskets for the front and rear of pan, I used the rubber, seems they fit ok but should I have used the cork?


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When you drop the pan you should see a depression in the side gaskets and end seals (cork or rubber) made by the pan.If no depression they were not sealing.


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I remember that my Dad had to reseal the oil pan on our '58 Belair wagon. He replaced the camshaft in the 235. When he re-installed the oil pan the rubber gasket at the front slipped out of position.

A couple of days later my sister was driving the car and the oil pressure light came on. She immediately pulled off the road and stopped the car. No damage except to Dad's ego.


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Thanks Guys for all the help, It was operator error! Front pan gasket slid out when I installed it, then second time rear gasket slid. Needless to say I got pretty good at removing the pan in the car.


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Did you use any guide pins/studs when putting the pan up? That helps to align the pan before contact with the block and allows the pan to go straight up .

Last edited by m006840; 04/15/20 01:43 PM.

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No I didn’t, sounds like a great tip though.
Fired her up yesterday and she runs great, no leaks so far as well!


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are there any seals on the distributor? housing that goes into the block?
there are 2 recesses in the one I have that looks like it would use an o-ring

thanks

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Let's get new thread going for this question. Please include information about the vehicle (model & year) as well as the engine. Also describe the problem you are having. Then we can better help you.

Thanks!


Rusty

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