Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#440674 04/05/20 04:29 PM
Joined: Sep 2019
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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I recently had some body work done on my 1932 2dr. The shop manager told me that there was some minor rot on the bottom of the joint at the front of the passenger side door frame. I don't know what his source was but he told me that they made braces for this joint. First, are they real, and second is a source. "Virgil" and I thank you!

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ChatMaster - 4,000
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I understand the concept of a steel brace for the wooden door frame.

What does it attach to the frame if the wood is rotting? And how does this fix actually stop the further deterioration of the wooden frame?

Last edited by Rusty 37 Master; 04/06/20 03:27 PM. Reason: Spelling

Rusty

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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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The rot only goes up about 3" on the vertical door frame wood. The body guy said the brace would go from the joint along the horizontal floor beam and the upright door frame. The rot that is already present will be chemically treated to prevent its spread. The more I think about it, I probably need to go to a machine shop and describe/show the brace would function and see if one can be made. I'm 75 and there was a time I could do it all myself as my Grandpa taught me rudimentary black smithing. Now a 2 lb hammer scares me to death!

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I think that should work to help brace the door wood, Not a perfect solution but would help keep it more solid. Good Luck!


Ed
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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My passenger side A pillar had rot on the bottom. My pillar was made from two 1 1/4 thick (ash?) boards glued together, one was rotted about 2 inches and the other about 4 inches. I removed all bad wood plus another inch or so. I fabricated oak pieces to fit and glued and screwed together. Next I took the support bracket and lengthened the steel about 4 inches so I could get screws into the old wood. Make sure there isn't any settling. I used a 2 x 4 to support the roof. Any metal fabricating shop can extend the brackets for you.

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Now you have me thinking. Your description of the damage helps also.

Why does the brace need to be steel? Could you build a simple wood brace (maybe 1x2's with a 3/8" plywood gusset) and attache it where the wood is still solid?

Or maybe use a 3/4" wide flat aluminum strip (1/8" thick) about 12" long. Bend a flat section about 1" long at each end at 45 degrees. Drill a hole in each end and attach it to the good wood along the vertical and horizontal pieces.


Rusty

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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Thanks to the folks who grasped the concept and made suggestions that are very useful. I especially like the jpeg image. Y'all are super!


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