Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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I run diesel oil in my gas engines if they are new or fresh rebuild but if they have 40k miles or more I dont.
I was told that diesel oil had a higher detergent level that kept the crud suspended in the oil longer for the filter to collect.
Tony


1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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tonyw #440597 04/04/20 10:55 AM
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Understood my engine was rebuilt some time ago and has 52658 on the dash. Not sure of the rebuilt miles. 10W-30 was used before the rebuild and was switched to conventional 10w-40. My mechanic is going to put a 100 miles on the truck before it gets returned to me. It's been a 3 year for the complete off frame restoration. I am looking forward to driving her to shows and around town. Shows may have to be next year due to the pandemic. Thanks again for the useful information be well

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I would stick with the 10w30 or even lighter. 216 rod bearings are oiled by squirters. Far better to have them start squirting when the engine is still cold.

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Listen to bloo
As far as I know the factory fill for break in on pressure stream oiled engines was actually straight 10W. At the first oil change the usual weight was to be used, which in most cases was SAE 20.
Chevrolet was very adamant that the viscosity be chosen based on the "lowest" expected temperature, not the "highest".
In other words, they were much more concerned that the oil be thin enough to work in the system, than they were that it might be too thin.
As per California Chev 6 hot rodders of the 1950's, Chevs had among the biggest bearing areas per load applied in the industry at the time. And even when running flat out they recommended straight 20 oil in new engines. If it were me, I'd be using a good 0W-20 for the first fill, then using whatever you feel comfortable with, but not heavier than 10W-30.
The best diesel oils are designed to protect under the most severe operating conditions. As compared to standard service station oils they have superior anti wear qualities, superior alkalinity retention (preventing corrosion due to acids building up in the oil), better detergency to keep the engine cleaner, are better at preventing sludge by holding soot etc in suspension, and resist thinning or thickening over time. There's more but you get the idea. At one time there was some concern that the so called high ash additives used to accomplish this would cause combustion chamber deposits that would raise effective compression ratios over time and give trouble. This doesn't seem to be a concern any more with newer additive packages, and in fact never occurred in any of our engines in the past either.
I could of course be wrong. :-)


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In case it wasn't obvious in the above, I have used nothing but diesel rated oils in all my engines for decades. :-)
And every newly purchased engine gets it's first oil change at about 100 to 150 miles to get rid of the initial load of wear particles, and then filled with diesel oil.

Last edited by Stovblt; 04/04/20 10:40 PM.

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Where do you find a 0W-20 disel oil?

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Hi there Maybe you could help me out I seen a post that you were talking about powerglide transmissions I have a 1951 Chevy with a two speed cast iron powerglide that I need to rebuild but I found a Chevy 1953 cast-iron two speed powerglide with the same tail end and front will it work with My 235?

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You do and you don't :-)

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-20 claims to meet CF specifications. Which was the best diesel spec available not that many years back and is still a very good spec. Strangely, Mobil seems to had disappeared all but the most basic specifications from their website very recently so you may not be able to verify. I can't even find their -40 degree Mini Rotary Viscometer tests any more.
I used a lot of Rotella T T5 (I think it was T5) 0W-30 in our cars, trucks, auger engines etc. but they discontinued that grade and my stock ran out.


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Originally Posted by Woodstock1987
Hi there Maybe you could help me out I seen a post that you were talking about powerglide transmissions I have a 1951 Chevy with a two speed cast iron powerglide that I need to rebuild but I found a Chevy 1953 cast-iron two speed powerglide with the same tail end and front will it work with My 235?

Woodstock, it is best to start a fresh post for a different topic.


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I actually just bought 3 x one gallon jugs of 0w20 Rotella diesel oil on a local buy and sell site for $20. Not a clue how old but grabbed it as it was cheap and sealed. Will just use it in my gas generators as they only get fired up to give them a run a few times a year under partial load.


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Years back I used to use Shell Synarctic 5W-20. Somehow doesn't seem as long ago as it really is.
Anyway, there was no SAE 0W spec back then so it was called 5W-20. But if it were made today it would be called 0W-20 with the pour point and cold flow characteristics it had.
It was a full diesel oil and Shell claimed to have run several big rigs over a million miles with it year round with no increase in wear compared to 10W-30. They promoted it as a solution to overnite idling that would save a lot of fuel.
Anyone else remember that stuff? Maybe it was a Canadian thing?



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The 5W oil came first. It was not recommended for use except winter extremme cold. Next was 5W-20 and then 5W-30. The lasest OW-16 specified for some Honda and Toyota engines.


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I've been reading that in Japan they have actually had 0W-8 in cars out on the road for the better part of 10 years now and seem to be happy with the performance.
Many years back before 5W was readily available a lot of guys up here would blend 1/2 quart of kerosene with 4 1/2 quarts of 10W oil (10%) during the winter. I've actually done it myself and it worked quite well in engines that didn't run too hot. Like 2 cylinder John Deere diesels. It had to be mixed before adding to the engine though or it tended to float on top of the oil in the crankcase and not mix until everything was well warmed up.
Did my own cold tests in glass bottles and it flowed better than any of the 5W-20's available back then. And the engines I used it in are still on the farm running strong!

Best to all, stay well
!


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Has anyone used Hemmings Motor Oil? I am curious on how it performs surprised they have a oil line.

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The local NAPA has conventional Valvoline and if you google it, Summit and others also have it.

Dave

Dave39MD #440845 04/09/20 11:44 AM
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Thanks Dave
I will go online to order it or find a NAPA near me when this pandemic passes. Do you know why valvoline nextgen recycled oil was discontinued ? What a great idea that was also environmentally friendly.

Dave39MD #440847 04/09/20 12:19 PM
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When I started this thread I had no idea it would turn into such a variety of opinions, information and comments.

Dave:
I called my NAPA store and asked for Valvoline 10-30 conventional oil. Was told they may have a few one qt containers in the back. No 5 gt containers! I called Summit and they have the 10-30 conventional in 1 gt containers. I next called Valvoline corporation in Kentucky and asked if they were in fact not making conventional 10-30 anymore. Was told they DO make it in 1 gt and 5 qt containers. Explained what most likely is happening is stores are only stocking what sells the best. 10-30 conventional is not in demand like it used to be.
So, it looks like the product is still being manufactured but one may have to hunt for it or ask your local parts store if they will special order it for you. They may require a larger order than a person wants.

Appreciate everyone's contribution to this thread.

Dick

Last edited by XLVIIdriver; 04/09/20 12:46 PM. Reason: added more info
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Lots of opinions on oil because most people do not truly understand the numbers and what they mean, not to mention the old wives tales that won't die, like switching between synthetic and conventional and that synthetic leaks more. These tall tales are up there with storing a battery on concrete requiring wood beneath it or it will die lol.

10W30 has been limited in stores here for 40 years. 5W30 pretty well took over at that point. Simply buy 5W30 if they have it. It's still the same 30 weight when hot but has better flow characteristics at startup than 10W30 so it will crank easier and lubricate better when cold. This is why 10W30 is redundant and not stocked as much in some areas.


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A bit of additional info. The 5 quart container of 10w 30 at my independent NAPA was $27+ and I noticed WalMart had the same thing for $17+ , quite a difference.

Dave

Dave39MD #441196 04/14/20 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave39MD
A bit of additional info. The 5 quart container of 10w 30 at my independent NAPA was $27+ and I noticed WalMart had the same thing for $17+ , quite a difference.

Dave

Are we talking 10w-30 conventional not synthetic or blended ?? Can't beat WalMart prices on oils

Dick

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Both conventional

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I just looked at Valvolines web site because you got me wondering. I always use Valvoline oil.
It appears they now call their conventional oil “daily protection”.

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