VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Radios, Tools, Accessories 1941 Clock Question

I had my clock professionally rebuilt when I restored my 1941 SD Coupe in 1999. It ran for a long time but recently will not run. I hate to admit it but I think I may have over wound it. Is there a way I can unwind or relieve the spring without taking to a repair shop. Thanks JIM

You can remove the clock to expose the escape mechanism and carefully start the escape wheel. If the clock is dry you can use a feather or a very small pointed paint brush to place some 3-in-1 oil on the bearings. If it is in fact over-wound, it won't take long, mechanically forcing the escape wheel to get the clock to run on it's own.

I agree with Ray's guidance about steps to get the clock going again.

Here are a couple of tips that I have picked up from Ray and others along the way as I work with these smaller more delicate mechanisms.

The first thing I do is use a can of the compressed "air" (most people buy for working with computers) to blow dust and dirt out of the mechanism. It is a more controllable source of air and will not "blast" air like a regular air gun.

I use what many people call a "pinpoint oiler" to apply that small amount of oil to the mechanism. I got mine from I think a ProBass store. It was in the section where they have the tools and lubricants to service and repair fishing reels.

Ray is right on when he states that you want a very light oil and a very small amount. If the oil is too thick it will gum things up and if you apply too much it quickly attracts a lot of dust and dirt.

Be careful with that canned air! Clocks and many gauges (especially gas gauges and ammeters) have "hair springs" that a jet of air can tangle or destroy.
A frequent problem is that the balance wheel bearings (clocks) or needle bearings (gauges) are sticky due to the old lubricant partially evaporating over the many years since it was last serviced. To take care of that, gently rinse the mechanism with clean solvent. Not WD40! It is not a solvent or a lubricant! Clock oil would be best as it is formulated for low evaporation. I personally use Tri-Flow which was originally recommended to me by Leica. I spent more than 40 years repairing cameras and other precision instruments and agree with Rusty's post on using just a tiny amount of oil on the bearings. Basically, if you can see the oil in the bearing you probably put on too much! The problem with too much oil is that it spreads to places it should not be and it attracts and holds onto dirt and grime.

Thanks for the tips. We are still having winter here in Missouri. It snowed yesterday. As soon as the weather breaks I will be getting my '41 ready for parades and car shows. I really don't need the clock to work but I pride myself for having restored my '41 to original (as close as you can get). and I want everything to work properly. I am a 50 year plus member of VCCA and have enjoyed every minute of it. There are so many knowledgeable people in our club and they are so willing to help other members. Thanks again JIM