I`ve just taken my 1932 waterpump apart. Adjustingscrew was all in, there was 4 mm axial play and rotor was in bad shape, so time for a rebuild.
I think I have most parts, but when I look in parts book and the set sold by Filling Station, I beleive I miss a fiber washer GM #346779. Is this fiber washer same dimention as the steel washer, and is it important that is made by fiber, or could it be some kind of metal?
Hello Morten, That would be a question for The Filling Station to answer if they could measure the rear thrust washer and determine fiber or metal. I would not think that it would be metal if it is in contact with a water mixture. Just guessing.
easiest solution... buy The Filling Station Bearing Water Pump, NO packing, no Tightening, install it and run...
and with a packing water pump, it should drip a slow drip to function properly. the water/coolant lubricates the packing. working in the pump induistry last 20 years we sell a LOT of packing pumps, if you tighten it too tight to try to stop the drip then you will overheat the pump/shaft from friction !!
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Yep, its supposed to drip. Very slowly is OK. If you have put more packing in it, lubricated it, and it still wont adjust down to a really really slow drip, and stay that way for a while, it probably needs a new shaft and/or bushings. Have you put in more packing?
There are a lot of big packing pumps still used in my area for irrigation. Bears315 nailed it. If you stop the leak completely, the shaft burns up. That is an expensive mistake on a big pump. It still seems to happen now and then.
Hey Morten. I have a 1932 - 1934 WP - 837035 FS Sealed Bearing water pump that has maybe a whole hour of Run time on it. Pretty much new So if you would like to go that route I'd sell you this one . Just PM me if interested
Thanks for infor about fiber washer, have read a lot of old threads, and just realized I also miss the spacer between the graphite packings. The spacer isn`t in the rebuild kit fra FS, but I beleive it`s needed in a 1932 waterpump?
I thought it was missing, but today I removed what I thought was only remainings of the graphite packings, and I found the spacer. It`s divided in 2 pieces, could maybe be 3 parts, is this normal?
The second picture is a bit unsharp, but it does show the 2 holes that lubricate the sharft.
The spacer is made in three pieces. Think they might either be squeezed or spot welded together. Not a problem to put it back in as it maintains a space for grease to get to the shaft between two sections of packing.
When I look a the back on my impeller, it seems like there is a lot of wear, is this fiber washer made of a special material, or should about any fiber washer do the job? I have looked for alternatives, and can see a similar fiber washer is used in some generators and old tractors, where would you look for a replacement fiber washer?
looks like a good amount of corrosion on that impeller !! lots of pitting and such, i would clean it up and see what it looks like or would a new impeller be best, want efficient water flow. vanes are critical to function of a pump !!
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
The material used for the fibre thrust washer is the same material as the fibre camshaft gear.It's cotton cloth impregnated with liquid bakelite and made into sheets,rods etc.
you can custom order them from MISUMI, I order parts for my 3d printer from them
Quote
Phenolic (Bakelite), Phenolic is a plastic with minimal thermal expansion, high compressive strength, excellent wear and abrasion resistance, and a low coefficient of friction. either paper base or cloth base
other materials: Polyacetal, MC Nylon, Phenolic (Bakelite), Fluoro Resin, PEEK and Epoxy Glass
come in metric sizes, approx 6 days
can get really close in dimensions per attached chart thickness can be in 0.5mm increments, ID & OD have to be in 1.0mm increments, @ $19.80 EA
cheaper if you buy a prefab WSJN30-16-3 (ID 16, OD 30, TK 3) for $7.05 each $4.34 if you get paper phenolic vs cloth
also can get something close from McMaster-Carr .625 ID x 1.50 OD x .085-.101 TK OD would have to be cut down, nothing with a 1.25 OD
there are many places you can custom order a phenolic cloth washer but may have to order tons of them to get them produced.
AACA - VCCA - Stovebolt - ChevyTalk Love the Antique Chevrolet's from 1928-1932 The Beauty, Simplicity, History, and the Stories they Tell
Try searching at a plumbing materials supplier or plumbing section of a hardware store. I don't think the outside dimension is critical but the inner will be. With the right thickness I think the inner or outer dimension could be altered without too much trouble.
When I look a the back on my impeller, it seems like there is a lot of wear, is this fiber washer made of a special material, or should about any fiber washer do the job? I have looked for alternatives, and can see a similar fiber washer is used in some generators and old tractors, where would you look for a replacement fiber washer?
Ahh... I think that impeller is toast. You should replace it with a new one. I may have an extra new one around.
When I look a the back on my impeller, it seems like there is a lot of wear, is this fiber washer made of a special material, or should about any fiber washer do the job? I have looked for alternatives, and can see a similar fiber washer is used in some generators and old tractors, where would you look for a replacement fiber washer?
There are no spacers/washers on earth that are going to stand up against the horribly worn hub surface. If you should choose to use your impellor have the rear of the hub faced smooth at a minimum and space accordingly but I agree with the above suggestion.
In my search for the fiber washer I got in touch with a guy who offered to make one for me in teflon. He got the dimensions, and a few hours later I could pick up 2 nice teflon washer, what a service. I beleive teflon will work without problems.
The impeller will certainly be replaced.
Now I can assemble the waterpump, flush waterchannels and mount it all with my restored radiator with new core. Hope overheating is history now.
It`s now a month since I finished my rebuild of waterpump, and installing my new radiator core. It`s still early spring here in Denmark, so only been out on maybe 6-7 trips, the longest about 40 miles.
I`m so happy that overheating is now something from the past. The waterpump parts I all got with a pile of parts I bought, the core I had to pay a lot for, but money well spent, it`s a pleasure to drive without worring about overheating.