|
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896 Likes: 28
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896 Likes: 28 |
I had keys made for a couple of spare 30-32 electrolocks about 5 years ago. A regional member needed one so I dug them out and of course they were locked up and not popping out. I managed to get one to turn and pop out and have taken out the cylinder and was thinking of using a brake hone to clean up the inside to make it work better but I thought I would ask before doing something stupid. Would it work and are there other things I can do to improve it's function?
Thanks
Dave
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
|
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
While expansion of the die-cast (white metal, etc.) assembly can freeze to the steel outside cylinder it is not the most common problem. The problem is between the two die-cast cylinders. Turning the key ~15 deg. retracts the tab and allows the two internal cylinders to "pop out" activating the ignition. Those two cylinders can be taken apart and the bore of the outside one sanded or reamed or honed. I generally sand them with crocus cloth on a wooden dowel rotated by hand. I also sand the outside of the inside cylinder that contains the wafers. With the key fully inserted the wafers should retract to be even to the outside diameter. Sanding with crocus cloth or other abrasive will restore the gap in a newly manufactured lock and keep the parts from sticking or freezing. Extreme care should be taken to slide out the "Y" shaped retainer and locking tab. It is retained by a small spring and button that must be removed first. Then interior "key" cylinder can be pushed out the back. Now double extreme care is necessary to retain the wafers and springs and not have them jump out and hide in the carpet or shop floor. It is also critical to keep them in the original order so the key will work again. Once removed the key can be installed to align the wafers and then sand the outside.
I have done a bunch of electrolocks including some that were nearly irreversibly frozen using the above techniques.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896 Likes: 28
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896 Likes: 28 |
Chipper,
Great info and warnings! Thanks for the response.
Dave
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896 Likes: 28
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
OP
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,896 Likes: 28 |
Chipper, I got it out and opened up and it is working. I was a little surprised on how much sanding I had to do but I was only taking a little off at a time.
You were so right about those wafers and the care required to keep them in the right order and not flying everywhere.
Thanks again
Dave
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
|
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
Glad you got yours working. It takes patience and a little know how to not mess it up.
I have rebuilt enough electolocks including those without keys, sticky, semi-frozen, shorted to starter terminal, etc. to know what to do and how to do it. That includes what not to do as well.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 206
Backyard Mechanic
|
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 206 |
May I tag in with an "electrolock" question? I have a 1933 Master, low mileage original, that I'm trying to get back on the road. The switch was "sticky" but a good dose of penetrating oil loosened it up and it works well with the original key. However, in checking it out, I find that when in off position I'm showing a low drain through the switch. Not being knowledgeable about these switches, I don't know where to go from here. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Gene (San Antonio)
52Conv
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8
Backyard Mechanic
|
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 414 Likes: 8 |
Gene, try blowing out the penetrating fluid with an air hose. It may be conducting because everything is wet.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 206
Backyard Mechanic
|
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 206 |
Thanks Peter, I'll try that...….keeping the fingers crossed!
52Conv
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 206
Backyard Mechanic
|
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 206 |
Well, I tried the "air dry" but I see that there is more oil in the switch than I suspected. Although it didn't solve the problem, it may with several more attempts. I'll continue to try the air and see if it improves. I don't know if there is a way to disassemble the unit without damaging it for cleaning. ? Thanks, Gene
52Conv
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,894
ChatMaster - 1,500
|
ChatMaster - 1,500
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,894 |
Since there is a lubricant in there that should not be used in a switch, you will need to buy "electrical contact cleaner" and see if you can remove the unwanted lubricant.
1938 Canadian Pontiac Business Coupe (aka a 1938 Chevy Coupe with Pontiac shaped front sheet metal - almost all Chevy!) 1975 4-speed L82 Vette
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64
ChatMaster - 15,000
|
ChatMaster - 15,000
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 19,758 Likes: 64 |
Most lubricants are not conductive enough to cause any problems in an electrolock. I suspect the insulation on the center wire has deteriorated enough to ground to the outside housing. If so it will be necessary to take it apart enough to replace the wire.
How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 206
Backyard Mechanic
|
Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 206 |
That's what I was afraid of, just hoping it was a simple fix. I'll have to pull it back out and see what I can find. I assume the disassembly will be fairly obvious . ? Thanks, Gene
52Conv
|
|
|
|
|