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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 125
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 125 |
Hello all, I wanf to install tubular shocks on the front of my 36 chevy pickup; Should they be installed straight up & down or at an angle? Thx for your advise.
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 435 Likes: 2
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 435 Likes: 2 |
The original single action shocks will make a huge difference in the ride of your truck, any reason why you want to go to newer style tubular shocks? The single action, once rebuilt, are good forever. The single action shocks are a bolt on addition if you have the bottom mounting brackets and I can send you patterns for both the front and rear bracket that you could get fabricated.
Just a thought.
1936 GMC T-14 low cab. TA for 1935-37 GMC, Director of the Gulf Coast Region
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
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ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
As others have said the original shocks in good condition (can be repaired) worked well. If you do covert to tubular I would mount them near vertical but selecting the suitable length (both collapsed and extended) is as critical as the top mounting bracket strength.
Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 125
Shade Tree Mechanic
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OP
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 125 |
Thx dunfire for your reply, Yes that would be great ifyou could send me the patterns; my email add is “oldlegends@icloud.com. Thx again
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024 Likes: 99
ChatMaster - 4,000
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ChatMaster - 4,000
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,024 Likes: 99 |
I agree with Tony and dunfire that the single acting lever shocks do a pretty good job of controlling things. Plus you know that they fit!
Converting to tubular shocks requires addressing 2 major issues. One is all the physical constraints regarding mounting configuration and strength of the mounts. The other is trying to select an appropriate shock given the physical dimensions established by the mounting configuration.
As Tony noted the shocks have to be able to handle the loads from full extension (like when you lift the frame and let the axle hang). They also have to compress enough that they will not bottom out when the axles bang against the bump stops. The shocks also need the proper damping rates in extension and compression. If too soft the truck will bounce (like it does when the lever arm shocks are empty). If too stiff it will ride really hard because the shock will add to the spring rate when going over bumps. It will not let the axle move up as quickly as you would like.
My suggestion is that you need to mock-up the mounting configuration to establish the dimensional travel limits for the shock. Plus you need to determine the type of shock mount you will use. Then start searching for shocks that have those compressed and extended lengths and are used on vehicles with similar front and rear axle weights.
I expect that you will probably need to make some adjustments to the mounting configuration to match what shocks are available. I also expect that the front and rear shocks will be different due to length and/or damping requirements.
Rusty
VCCA #44680
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 435 Likes: 2
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 435 Likes: 2 |
will email you the patterns that I have.
1936 GMC T-14 low cab. TA for 1935-37 GMC, Director of the Gulf Coast Region
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