Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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I have heard that using a hacksaw blade can release the coil from the armored cable assembly...at what location is the locking tab in relation to where the cable enters the cap?..do I just sldie the blade upwards to release the tab while rotating the coil?..I'd appreciate any experience you could share...

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I hope you have better luck than I did. A hacksaw blade was too thick to work right on my '38. I even had an image showing where to insert the tool but I was not successful in getting it to release. I ended up destroying my coil getting the cap off. Do yourself a favor, when you do get it off, use a dremel tool to grind the locking tab off of the inside of the cap. With it gone removing the cap is a simple twist and lift.


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I used a thicker feeler gauge to make the spring tab release. It did take a lot of effort.

The trick I used was to rotate the cap as far away from the spring clip as I could, I then inserted the feeler gauge between the tab on the cap and the spring clip. When I rotated the cap towards the clip I moved the feeler gauge with it. The leading edge of the feeler gauge flexed enough that it went up over the spring clip and acted like a ramp so the tab could depress it.

Last edited by Rusty 37 Master; 12/17/19 02:12 PM. Reason: More details

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thanks for the reply, guys...looking from the top, if the armored cable is at "12 o'clock," where or what position would the locking tab be?..

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I'm looking at an uninstalled electro lock assembly, looking at the top, with the cable at 12 o'clock the tab is at one o'clock, actually a little closer, maybe 12:45. I'm not sure if my electrolock is from a '37 or a '40, but I am guessing they're similar. The tab is bent back on itself, with the opening facing the wire, maybe 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the tab to the wire.

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thanks, blue...thanks a great description...appreciate the help...

Last edited by Chevrolet; 12/17/19 11:02 PM.
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Happy to help. I've had this electro lock sitting around for a few years now. Finally came in handy...

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The instructions. Like I mentioned before, if you grind off the locking bump in the cap you'll never have to worry about trying to find the release again.

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coil.jpg elecoil.jpg
Last edited by Tiny; 12/18/19 08:53 AM.

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thanks so much for the help...

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here's another instructional pic

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thanks...

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i struggled for couple of hours with a set of thickness gauges today without success...does anyone have a picture of the inside of the cap that can be posted here ...or please send me a pm?..thanks...

Last edited by Chevrolet; 12/21/19 07:52 PM.
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This is my '38. I don't know how it translates to your '40. The yellow arrow points to the nub that the locking tab on the coil locks against. Once you get the cap off, use a dremel tool to remove it so you won't have to go through this again.

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Locking Nub.jpg

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thanks, tiny...

first, i was trying to find the release on the other side of my cable...there doesn't seem to be any obstruction to my thickness gauge on the side where your arrow is pointing...

second, i thought i was feeling for a flat metal tab, not a nub...

so are '38's and '40's or cars and trucks different designs?..

again, i appreciate your photo and help...

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The instruction pictures above show it on the side shown in my photo. I have an extra electrolock in the garage. PM me your cell number and I'll send you a short video directly.


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thanks...just sent...

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thanks for the video, tiny...i was confused yeaterday when i wrote the message...i was trying in the correct location yesterday after all...so i will try again with new confidence!..

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Even if you're in the right spot remember you need to twist the cap to get it off. Lefty loosey. Try twisting the coil/cap as you probe.


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