Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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#435396 12/06/19 08:36 PM
Joined: Jul 2011
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
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When I let off the gas on my 32 coupe and coast I get a noise that sounds like spinning the wheel of fortune, if i get back on it the noise goes away. I disconnected the driveshaft and the noise went away so it is not in the transmission or free wheeling. The universal looks good, it moves around alot but that appears to be the way it was designed. The noise seems to be coming from around the universal area and that end of the torque tube. I replaced the torque tube end of the universal because the outer surface of the splined surface looked scored but the noise was still there . I see there are bushings in the torque tube but don't know their condition of if it would cause my noise, The rear end still has fluid in it and it does not sound like the noise is coming from there....Help !!


1932 5 Window Confederate Coupe Best of Era 6 cylinder 2016
1968 Corvette Roadster 383 CI-425 HP
1938 Business Coupe "personalized"
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My 33 had that type of noise, I rebuilt the u-joint and replaced the torque tube bushing and the noise went away. Actually, I replaced the bushing first and it did not help until I rebuilt the u-joint.


Ed
Joined: Jul 2011
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
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Did the U joint look bad ?? I didn't know they made a rebuild kit for U joints. Was it a big deal to replace the torque tube bushing?


1932 5 Window Confederate Coupe Best of Era 6 cylinder 2016
1968 Corvette Roadster 383 CI-425 HP
1938 Business Coupe "personalized"
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Too much end play in the trunnions (in the axial direction) can cause this problem, especially if the torque tube bushing is worn. Best solution is a new u-joint, but I've also had success by machining the shoulders of the trunnions and adding a hard washer to each of the four to restore a snug fit. My guess would be that no more than .020" end play would be OK, but I'll defer to others who may know the exact amount. I haven't seen repair kits for these u-joints. Because of the design, they don't have the traditional cross with bearings that would be in a kit. The spherical bearings are available, though -- but my experience has been that the trunnions wear more than the bearing. If you're going to go through all of that, I'd put in a new u-joint if you can find one. I couldn't and thus installed the hard washer spacers.

Replacing the torque tube bushing is not too bad. There is a slot in the top of the torque tube to allow you to drive the old bushing and seal out. Have a look in the repair manual and do a search on the forum here and you'll find more details. Ensuring that the seal is facing the correct direction and does not get damaged as you drive the bushing in is the most challenging.

Hope that helps.

All the Best, Chip


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Yes, the old one looked bad. I miss spoke when I said I rebuilt it, I got a new u-joint and all I used of the old one was the part with the speedometer drive gear on it. They can get too much end play and kind of wobble like Chip said above.


Ed

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