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I think my clutch is getting ready to be replaced in my 1940 Chevy 1/2 ton truck.. How do I remove the torque tube so I can drop the transmission. Also, Where is the best place to find the clutch parts and a new front seal for the transmission. Will Copeland

Hi Will,

Replacing the clutch is not a technically difficult job. It just takes time and patience.

My first recommendation is to get a shop manual for your truck. It will give you the information you need to get to the clutch assembly as well as remove and inspect it.

The torque tube is not removed. The bell shield that is attached to the back of the transmission is removed and slid to the rear. This exposes the u-joint. You take the u-joint apart apart and slide the rear portion to the rear and off of the transmission output shaft.

Make sure you support the front end of the torque tube so it does not drop when you slide the u-joint to the rear.

There is not seal at the front of the transmission. The design uses a slinger disc that directs the gear lube away from the bearing.

The 2 most popular places to get parts are Chev of the 40's and The Filling Station. As a member of VCCA you will be able to contact many individuals who deal in parts for these older vehicles.

Howdy,

FYI, something that's not obvious is to place jack stands in the rear so that they support the chassis, not the rear axle. This allows the rear axle to hang lower, resulting in the torque tube pulling away from the back end of the tranny a little. This movement gives you more room to slide the bell shield back and extra room to get the u-joint apart.

Cheers, Dean

Thank you

Thanks for adding that key point Dean!

Will,

When you let the rear axle hang it tends to "pull" the torque tube away from the rear of the transmission. The create more room for you to slide the rear of u-joint back on to the drive shaft going to the rear axle.

I was wrong in my first post about sliding the u-joint off the transmission output shaft. You want to separate the u-joint. The front position of the u-joint stays connected to the transmission output shaft.

Before you disconnect the u-joint use a center punch to mark the various pieces so you know which trunnion bearing fits which trunnion on which parts of the front and rear yokes.

I expect that you will need to loosen the packing ring on the rear end of the bell shaped tube that is attached to the transmission, That will allow you to slide it to the rear more easily to expose the u-joint.

I still strongly encourage you to get a shop manual.

"Before you disconnect the u-joint use a center punch to mark the various pieces so you know which trunnion bearing fits which trunnion on which parts of the front and rear yokes"

Rusty,

Reference your statement above. Who ever does that?

Good idea, I gusse but are you sure it is necessary to go to the trouble of doing that.

I have always tried to keep the bushings or needles in place as they came out but didm;t worry about it if they got mixed up. Seems they don't wear much and one replaces all of them each time it is necessary anyway.

If one wants to waste time then I think it would be best to just take them apart down to the needles or bushing and clean them, grease them and randomly put them back together.

Even that is not necessary. Just use a finger tip full of grease and push it in the pocket and forget it. Wipe off the excess. Expect no problems because there won't be any.

You know that I am just nitpicking. Well, sorta.

Best,

Charlie

BTW: One can take the differential loose and unseat it, then move it back until the U-joint comes all the way off intack Then you can slide it off and while rotating a wheel slide it back on. Piece o-cake. Merely seat the springs again and then button everything back up. I have done it this way. Works great especially if one is working alone..

Hi Charlie,

Hope you had a good Turkey Day!

I have heard about the technique to loosen the u-blots and slide the whole rear axle assembly to the rear. I understand how that can work. I still think you have to separate the u-joint. The front half is attached to the transmission output shaft with the bolt through the center of the joint into a threaded hole in the center of the shaft.

Marking parts before you take them apart is just a normal part of the way I work. We all have our own ideas and approaches to this work. It is what I learned from working with my Dad It is what I recommend to the people I help as they learn to work on mechanical systems. My justification is that I want to maintain the relationship between parts that have wear patterns.

I agree that there are situations when this is not as critical. How do you tell a beginner all the cases when this is important and when it is not? Remember that the u-joint on a '40 has bushings, not needles. Should those parts be kept together? And do you mix races and bearings for the front spindles?

For me it is just simpler to do it one way.

Rusty,

The U-Joint and cover must be already on the transmission then the drive shaft goes into the end of the U-joint. You must hold the drive shaft in place whilst winching the differential forward. With slight pressure and slight turn of a wheel to turn the d®ive shaft, the U-Joint and the drive shaft splines will align and slide right in.. Then the U-joint cover is moved forward and the four bolts installed and the bell nut snugged up.

If the U-joint is so far worn that the bearings must go into the same place as removed, then I suspect a new set of bearing is called for.

You and I would make a good team on working on old Chevrolets. If we could just agree on something we could make great progress..

Best regards,

Charlie

Now I understand your approach. The advantage is that in your process you never mess with taking the u-join apart and then fighting to get the bolts started to re-assemble it. Then you can lower and remove the transmission with the u-joint attached to access the bell housing and clutch.

I need to determine if that will work with my '37. In that year the cross-member is not removable so you have to pull the transmission up and out through the access opening in the floor. You have to slide the transmission to the rear to disengage the input shaft and get it clear of the bell housing. The you need to rotate the front end upwards and lift the transmission out. The extra length of the rear half of the u-joint might be an issue. There is not much room to move the whole transmission forward as you lift it.

Boy, my back hurts just thinking about doing that! Think I will either get some help the day I do that or figure out how to use the engine hoist to help.

Rusty,

It may or may not work for anything but a 41 but it did work for me.

You may indeed have to stick with the mainetnance manuel.

Good luck with it.

Charlie