Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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Joined: Sep 2017
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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My Grandfather bought this 1926 hodge podge truck years ago. He bought a spare engine and wanted me to rebuild both of them. He passed away a few years ago and my Dad got a hold of it so we could finish it up. My best guess is that it was a 26 touring car converted to a truck. The mains were way out and nearly every part needed some amount of work.

While we redid the mains, we tackled all the small bits on the rest of the car. Unfortunately I believe I'm missing the spacer that goes in front of the throwout bearing, so the clutch pedal only has about 2 inches of functional movement to disengage the clutch. The timing adjustment linkage is frustratingly sloppy. Aside from that and some minor issues with base timing, we got it running and took it out for a spin. Here's a little walk around just after running it through some heat cycles to seat the rings. The timing and idle are little off.

first run

There are still quite a few things left to do, but it feels great to have gotten this far.

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Congratulations and enjoy it. Drive it with a smile on your face.


See you Touring the Back Roads

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I have been collecting parts to build a truck exactly like yours on a 28 chassis. The bedsides I have are from a canopy express of unknown year/make, top bows from a 26 roadster, and brakes from a 29. If your truck still has the two wheel rear brakes a better question is how fast can it stop. Sooner or later there will be some moron pull out in front of you because "everyone knows those old cars are super slow" Congrats on getting a great project running. Art

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Grease Monkey
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I'm still working out the rear brakes. I'd love to install front brakes, but finding all of the parts would be difficult. I'm removing the high spots on the brake liner now and it's nearly the same radius as the drum. Once it can fully seat, I'll have a little more confidence in the brakes.

I don't know if it's a good thing or not, but I have a lot of experience riding old stuff with rear brakes only. I've been building vintage choppers for years and some of them only had a single drum brake that was 50+ years old haha. smart right!?

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I'm not sure I understand what part you are missing for your clutch. If it is the clutch throw out bearing plate, and you are running a carbon throw out bearing directly against the clutch fingers, you are on borrowed time.
I'm sure I am misunderstanding your situation.
Congratulations on a sweet ride. Let's not discuss the source of your pickup bed.

Mike


ml.russell1936@gmail.com

Many miles of happy motoring
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Grease Monkey
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I asked about the missing washer in the New Member section. I don't mean to crowd the forum with redundant posts, but here is a picture of the transmission diagram that shows the potentially missing part.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BHXszwEcnAu9XoHV8

I think I'm missing the washer that goes between the clutch fingers and the throwout bearing sleeve. You can see it in the diagram just to the left of the clutch throwout bearing sleeve. In the diagram, it looks like this washer slides in between the 4 bosses on the ends of the throwout bearing sleeve. If so, maybe it wont help increase the functional range of the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal adjustment nut is tightened all the way down just to get a few inches of movement on the clutch.

Last edited by TurboGrimace; 11/15/19 09:23 AM.
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I have been messing with those era Chevrolets for 50 years and can't recall ever seeing that washer.


How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!
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Backyard Mechanic
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Congratulations on your first drive! IT is a good feeling. Finally took one of mine out just a few weeks ago after a nearly 45 years sleep.

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Grease Monkey
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well that makes me feel a little better haha! I still wonder why the clutch pedal engages so close to the floor.

another quick question if you don't mind. On the tie rod ends, is there a spacer, like a thrust washer, that's supposed to go between the steering knuckle arm and the tie rod end? There seems to be an appreciable gap there. I don't see it as much of a problem since it wont be loaded vertically, but there are some pretty thick washers under the castle nut on the bottom of the tie rod end. It seems almost the perfect size to fill the gap.

Last edited by TurboGrimace; 11/15/19 01:19 PM.
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I have never restored a 4-cylinder that did not have that special washer. It wouldn't be in the picture if it were not used.

devil Agrin


RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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Grease Monkey
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do you have a spare?

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Sorry, I do not have any extra at the time. Contact Gary Wallace in MO.

devil Agrin


RAY


Chevradioman
http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/



1925 Superior K Roadster
1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet
1933 Eagle, Coupe
1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe
1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan
1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible
2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van
2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ
2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ

If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road.
Death is the number 1 killer in the world.


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I think Ray is right. The spacer is shown in the 28 4 cylinder diagram, but was not used in the 29 and later. From the wear I have seen on the 29 cast iron sleeves I suspect the 28 steel spacer was supposed to be a buffer so the cast iron wouldn't wear too soon. You could make a spacer out of mild steel. I think they are about 3/32" thick.

There were at least two different types of sleeve. One is fairly thick cast iron with a smooth wear surface for the carbon, and the other one is hot pressed steel like it was made out of pipe with a cupped flange. If you have the one that is steel I wouldn't worry about the spacer. If you have the cast iron sleeve it will just cup the cast iron where the throughout fingers rub. May take 20 or 30 years. If you would like I could email a picture of the two types I have. I do not have a spare of the spacer. Gary Wallace probably has one.

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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Beachbum,Beachum, I sent you an email

What's the best way to access the clutch? Drop the rear out?


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