VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1929-1932 Sheared off bolt in exhaust manifold

So the reason my '32 is so loud is because one of the two exhaust hanging bolts is broken off in the manifold. This was likely caused by the car being so poorly tuned that I thought I had a broken motor mount! That's how much it was moving!

I've got her running smooth now.

Anyway, I have no idea how to fix this. Will a modern exhaust shop know how to remove and replace that bolt?

should be a simple solution.sometimes they can 1 drill and pull it out and re chase threads, 2 have to drill out completely and put in a helicoil or 3 drill out and go to next size larger tap size.

i would go for option 1 then option 2

most any machine shop should be confident in doing so if you do not have the skill and tools to do so yourself.

TFS sells the Stud and nut kit

I have had that problem but ,wow, it has been so long ago I am not sure what I did. I think on one manifold, I actually drilled the stud clear out and put a bolt clear through with a nut on it. What ever I did it has been working for years! lol

My neighbour had a similar sort of problem with his Toyota Landcruiser.One of the manifold studs snapped off flush with the cylinder head,but I managed to drill it out in place(using a cordless or battery drill)with a US made tool called "Drill-Out Power Extractors",and just clean the threaded hole in the head out with a plug or finishing tap.

I recently removed a broken exhaust manifold stud from a 1929 head. I used a piece of 11 gauge steel about 1 1/8" wide X 6" and drilled a hole about 13/32" diameter near the end and then plug welded it to the end of the stud. Take a small light hammer and gently tap the steel bar back and forth. It could take many taps to break it free. Go slowly and if the plug weld breaks just weld it again. If possible I would do this before drilling. I have taken out dozens of broken studs this way.

Man, I have GOT to learn how to weld.

I have done everything, from renovating hotels to restoring cars to working on airplanes, but have somehow never learned how to weld. At 61, am I too old? ????

Wire welding is a blessing not only for those that have little to no experience but also those that have welded most of their lives. Penetration is vital. As long as you learn that and practice on non critical pieces you will be okay. My recommendation is use a 220 V machine as they are much less apt to vary from voltage drop.

Ran into the same problem. Twisted a bolt off right in the manifold. Happen to have a lot of drill bits and a tap and die set so I drilled the rest of the bolt out and then tapped it for a slightly larger bolt.

A wide variety of metal-drilling bits and a good tap and die set may sit in your shop unused for years. But when you need them, you'll be glad you have them.

I bought a set of LEFT HAND drill bits for dealing with things like this. You need to drill it anyway in order to run a tap through it and with the left hand bits, the drilling itself can turn the piece out much of the time. I find that once you hollow out the middle of the broken bolt a bit, it provides some relief and the piece will spin out in the direction of the drill bit...

Jay, last year when I was only 65 I enrolled in an Intro to Welding class at my local junior college. It was great fun and very informative. Go for it!

As for getting the broken bolt out, if you use a left-handed tap or an easy out, before you start drilling, I suggest that you heat the bolt area with a propane torch and hold a candle to the bolt. The wax will wick down the threads and provide a dry lubricant that will help the bolt come out. I recently learned this trick and have used it a few times with good success.

Cheers, Dean

You're an inspiration! :-)

Brilliant!

I've used Easy Outs, and they usually end up breaking off. Probably cheap Chinese junk, but very frustrating.

I like your left hand drill bit idea!

Hello Jay Honeck,
There are youtube videos explaining how to use a 1. center punch, a 2. center drill, and using 3. left hand drills in that order to successfully remove broken studs/bolts. If the drill hole is not centered, these tools are rendered ineffective. Work slowly and don't force anything. I too, have broken off easy-outs in the past because I tried to turn out a broken bolt using too small of an extractor. A set of left handed drill bits allow you to work up in diameter until the broken bolt/stud gives up or is completely drilled out.

Thanks for the great advice!