Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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tonyw Offline OP
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Some time ago someone converted the front wheel bearings from the original ball type to tapered roller. I have just been quoted $400 for replacement ball bearings for my 38 truck. The worst part is that to make all fit I need to buy 6 bearings to get 4 that fit.
I remember someone had converted to tapered roller but search would show all topics but not what I was looking for, can someone provide more info on this??
Tony


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Why are you changing back to ball bearing ? I would leave the roller bearings. If they are worn out I would replace with roller bearings. I've converted two of my cars to rollers. Dick


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tonyw Offline OP
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I am not going back to ball, the ball type I have need replacement and was going to replace with the same type until told about the 4 to make 2 issue.
The ball to roller conversion I remember being posted about on here noted a issue I was hoping to avoid (I am thinking with the seal) but want to check before ordering parts.
What problems did you encounter doing your conversion and do you remember what part numbers did you use????
Tony


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$400?!

Was that balls or rollers? I bought one outer ball bearing last year (my Pontiac takes the same one as a 38 Chevrolet). I cant seem to find a receipt, but about $15.

If you must have rollers, I think they are special bearings, not off the shelf types, as the hub was designed for balls, and roller bearings are a very different shape (in any commonly used sizes). At the very least I think there would need to be a sleeve for the seal to ride on. Filling Station probably has the kit.

I read all about it when I needed a bearing. IIRC even if you buy all the right parts you have to dent the seal for clearance, and thats just not how I build things.

There is this thread: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/353769/front-wheel-bearings.html

I see you are in Australia. A quick look on Ebay showed none in Australia, but even sent from the United States, I think you could get all four ball bearings for about $150 including mailing. I think the numbers you would need are WBB01 and WBB02, but I would want to verify that before ordering. I did not check for seals.

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tonyw Offline OP
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My supplier originally checked for direct replacement but is now looking for anything that fits.
I have had issues with the ball type wheel bearing with past vehicles so would prefer roller anyway.
I havent forgotten about the Filling Station but considering the shipping would make the cost more prohibitive that the $400 set.
Tony


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hi just be careful buying the bearings from the filling station i wanted to fit them to my car as well as they are a good swap but in new zealand we have different shaft sizes than the usa ones so yours may be different as well being in Australia i emailed them asked them to measure them which they did the filling stn are helpful when you need more info
the bearings are a odd ball size you can machine things to take off the shelf bearings but cost goes up

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tonyw Offline OP
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Yes Tony I have been caught with the variations before. At this stage my local bearing shop is digging through their suppliers forgotten shelves by measurement. I have 2 different sized sets of spindles though 1 of the spare spindles is damaged. There are differences between the US , Canadian and Aus built trucks and would not be surprised if the NZ built had a couple of differences as well, traps for the young.
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Does anyone have parts books for Australia and NZ? Posted online or otherwise? If the bearings are a different size, then the numbers should not match. US catalogs are on OldCarManualProject for comparison.

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tonyw Offline OP
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According to my bearing supplier the inner bearing inner race and outer race are no longer made as a combination but each race is used in combination with other races hence the expense and no other Aus supplier has either part. My supplier is now searching for anything that will fit.
Tony


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Front inner National B02: <CLICK>

I don't remember the number but I think I got the outers locally, had to order them.

Edit: I believe the outer is National B01 which I got through a local parts house. You can also get them through Amazon: <CLICK>

No mixing and matching. They were a perfect fit on my '38.

Last edited by Tiny; 10/11/19 03:39 PM.

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tonyw Offline OP
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Tiny Thank you for the links and those pics look like correct part though I havent measured yet, amazon say not correct but I dont always believe big stores.
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They fit my '38 perfectly. They are a direct cross from the New Departure 9001 and 9002.


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Got some original New Departure NOS 909001 & 909002 front wheel bearings for my '28 truck,but they fit a whole range of models.
Models they fit:
Inner Bearing(909002):1925-31 All,1932-39 BA,CA,DA,EA,EB,FA,FB,GA,10

Outer Bearing(909001): 1925-31 All,1932-42 BA,CA,DA,EA,EB,FA,FB,GA,GB,GC,10,12,13,14,AG,AH,AK,AL,BG,BG


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GM 909001+909002, New Departure 9001+9002, National B01+B02, and Chinese from Ebay WBB01+WBB02 would indicate an inner and outer set of BALL bearings (one wheel's worth) all for the same application. They cover a whole bunch of US model Chevrolets. If Aus. or NZ versions use different sizes, I wouldn't know about that.

I thought Tonyw had decided not to use ball bearings?

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Thanks for links Tiny. This is a bit off topic but i see the ball bearings have part numbers listed separately on e bay.Does this mean the bearing parts can be replaced separately?

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I would suspect not anymore.

I have seen the parts listed ONLY separately in old GM catalogs (I don't recall offhand whether that was Chevrolet or Pontiac). The trouble is, current production is sort of different.

On that one outer bearing I replaced, the balls were larger on the new production bearing, and it used a plastic separator. I don't think it would be safe to re-use any of the old New Departure parts because the radius and diameter of the races is probably different.

I was only replacing one of four bearings, and would have gladly bought NORS New Departure if there had been any readily available. I could have even done with just a cone as the races were fine. That particular week, none were listed, complete or parts. The following week, after I had done the job, Ebay was full of them.

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In theory you could replace just the balls since they are loose items but all of the parts become wear mated together so putting new balls in worn races (even though they visually look fine) could just lead to more wear. Mixing brands, particularly overseas Ebay balls with a different brand of old used races and cones might get rapid wear or noise.

Ideally you want to replace bearings as a complete mating unit.


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Originally Posted by bloo
I thought Tonyw had decided not to use ball bearings?
I think that was because his supplier told him he had to buy extra sets to make it work. My post was to show him he doesn't, assuming his spindles haven't been messed with. The B01 & B02 were a perfect fit on my '38.


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Those are great details Tiny. Did you change bearings to solve a problem or just maintenance?

I have healthy originals and these really tempt me but like Tony, after paying dollar exchange and shipping, I'd be over $400 for a full set...

Tony, you could likely source and buy just one set to try. Since they are common you could resell them if they don't fit. If they fit, buy the other side. Or even just try one single bearing initially to do a go/no-go test.

Last edited by canadiantim; 10/13/19 08:58 AM.

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My right side went mammarys up so I replaced both sides.


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tonyw Offline OP
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The bearings I have are not servicable and I dont care if I use roller or ball as replacements so long as they hold everything in its correct place.
I called in again today and they have found another cross reference number and will be checking other suppliers for the new numbers over the next few days.
Tony


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