VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1949-1954 Can't figure out problem with starting...

Okay...here's my problem: I have a '48 Stylemaster Sedan with a '61 235 cu in engine, 6 volt. It has run beautifully until recently. It has now decided it will not start unless the battery is fully charged. I start it and drive it just a few miles and it refuses to start again. At first we thought it was the battery, so I bought a new battery and it started right away but died later when I cut it off. Then, we decided it was the starter because it was dragging slowly so I got a new (rebuilt) started and we put that on. With the battery fully charged it started but when I cut if off and tried to start it again it wouldn't start. So...we thought something was pulling down the battery and tested for that but nothing is drawing down the battery.We looked for a short somewhere but could find nothing.

I took the car to a mechanic friend and he looked at it but could find nothing. However, he did change the timing on the car, put in a new Interstate 6 volt battery and put ethanol gasoline and sea foam in it where as I have always used 100% non-ethanol. It now backfires a lot and if I try to go up even a modest incline it starts to buck badly and wants to die. I managed to get it home and am charging the battery for the next time I have to take it out. Oh, I also noticed it is now running about 20 degrees hotter than normal..it usually runs just a tick over 180 even on very hot days.

Can anyone tell me just what the heck is going on with my Chevy? Thanks...Mickey Holton

If it normally cranks slowly it's one of three things. Either the starter is in need of a rebuild, you have 12v cables OR (and more likely) your battery cables and where the cables connect need a good cleaning. Good grounds are of paramount importance with a 6v system. a 6v system uses twice the amperage of a 12v so the cables must be heavier gauge AND the connections MUST be clean & free of rust. Since you're constantly fiddling with the battery I suspect that's part of your problem. If the cables on your car were purchased at a local parts house they are likely 12v cables and too light. You can usually order 1 ga. or 0 ga. but they aren't often in stock. Most welding supply houses will make cables for you. Go no smaller than 1 ga.. I would say your mechanic friend messed up the timing. Throw the timing light away. The timing specs were set up for much lower octane gasoline. Start the car & let it warm up. When warm and idling adjust the timing to the fastest & smoothest idle. Lock it down, adjust the idle on the carb if necessary and drive it. If it still wants to misfire and die under load I'd replace the fuel pump. If you prefer buying non alcohol gas, buy it. There's no reason for it to cause drivability issues. Many of us prefer it over ethanol when it's available. Good luck.

Tiny..thanks for your reply. I know I have 6 volt cables on my car as I was there when they were put on. The starter is a newly rebuilt starter. We have checked all the grounds, etc. and they seem to be good. The battery is drained almost completely in just a few minutes after starting and driving it. This was also happening with the "old" rebuilt starter on it, too, and it is just a year and a half old. This just started withing the last several months and I never had any problems with the car starting. I have always used 100% non-ethanol gas since I had the 1961 235 engine rebuilt and put in the car and I was a little bit ticked off when I found out gas with ethanol and sea foam was put in it. 100% non-ethanol gas is readily available here and I have always used it. In August I drove the car to a car show about 60 miles from Nashville and back on a VERY hot day and the car started and ran fine. I am totally flustered as to why it has started acting this way and no one here can tell me why it is!..Mickey

The problem is NOT the ethanol gas or Sea Foam.

Yeah, I know that, but I've been extra careful not to use it!

So, what does the ammeter indicate when the motor is running at hi rpm's?

It shows charging to the max almost.

My '37 had a similar problem a few years ago, and ruscar is leading you in the direction of the cut-out switch. Not being familiar with the '48 charging system, if it has a stand alone cut-out switch, it will be located on the generator. Remove the cover and see if the copper wire has broken or melted, this will cause the battery to try to drive the generator like an electric motor. With the fan belt attached it won't take much to kill the battery.

If it has a regulator on the firewall, then the cut-out switch is a part of it. Same check applies, I believe.

On a stock 1948 the generator cut-out is built into the voltage regulator. It would be the "thing" way to the left side in the regulator and it's contact points should be open when engine is at idle speed or not running.