|
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 15
Grease Monkey
|
OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 15 |
I own a 51 bel air, got a 54 235 under the hood. I have a rear main seal that has gone out. From everything I’ve read it seems the rope seal is the best bet. Also from what I’ve read it seems you have to take out the motor and remove the bottom to Adequately replace it. Is there any other gasket or seals that should be changed while doing this as a preventative? Also has a offenhauser valve cover. I used a valve cover gasket for a 54 and it doesn’t seem to seal tight enough. After doing a little reading it seems like a 37-53 gasket is best?
|
|
|
JOIN THE VCCA and get access to the member-only features of the forum, including the ability to upload photos. You'll also receive our monthly magazine "Generator & Distributor". Yearly membership as low as $25!
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,306
ChatMaster - 2,000
|
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,306 |
I would consider purchasing a complete gasket kit which would allow you to replace all the engine gaskets. Taking the head off will tell you a lot about the corrosion in the cooling system, which you could flush out as well as the water jacket of the block. You could basically go through the engine looking closely at its over all condition. Chevs of the 40s overhaul gasket kitGood luck, Mike
Mike 41 Chevy
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
|
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6 |
I have been successful replacing the rear main on both my 216s, in the vehicle. I have found that they won't seal unless the main bearings are adjusted to their minimum clearances, something that is difficult to do in a motor without shims. I have found that the best rope seal is made by Best Gasket.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 15
Grease Monkey
|
OP
Grease Monkey
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 15 |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 57
Shade Tree Mechanic
|
Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 57 |
The neoprene seals do the best job but you must (a) polish the sealing area on the crank and (b) shim the seals so that a constant contact is maintained. As mentioned above if the main bearing clearances are too large, you'll have trouble with either seal type. If the sealing area on your crank is rough and pitted, consider using a "Speedi-Sleeve" on it. Good luck. This for the 235 is a common problem.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
|
Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,379 Likes: 1 |
Woo! Enlighten me on the Speedy-Sleeves for the crank. How are they installed? 
RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42
ChatMaster - 6,000
|
ChatMaster - 6,000
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 6,149 Likes: 42 |
To my knowledge a speedie sleeve cannot be installed to the rear of a crankshaft, the flywheel flange is in the way. Tony
1938 1/2 ton Hope to drive it before I retire
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6
ChatMaster - 2,000
|
ChatMaster - 2,000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,323 Likes: 6 |
At a certain point in time, I don't know which year, the block and cap were machined to accept the neoprene seal. I think it was sometime after 1954.
Last edited by old216; 09/22/19 08:41 AM.
My 1951 1 Ton is now on the road! My 38 Master 4 Door is also now on the road .
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141
ChatMaster - 25,000
|
ChatMaster - 25,000
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,701 Likes: 141 |
The 1955 blocks were the first to have the deeper seal area and it was not to accmodate the neoprene seal The rope seal was used in production until the end of the 235 blocks,. The neoprene seal for replacement came along in the late 1960's if I remember correctly and was designed to be used for 1955 and up. It was first used in production in 1959 for 8 cylinder engines. The neoprene seal can be used in 1940-1954 blocks by adding something behind the seal to bring the lip out far enough to contact the crankshaft. This requires shortening the sea by cutting a little off of the ends. I used nylon wire ties in my 1950 to insert beind the seals to accomplish this. After several years still no leaks.
Gene Schneider
|
|
|
|
|